@Boswell - I'm just wondering why frosting the surface of an LED would be an issue. The same amount of light will still get out. OK, it might get a bit more more diffuse, but you don't need tightly focused light inside a blast cabinet. General, diffuse illumination is what you want. And if you're thinking of "bulbs" or "fluorescent tube" type lamps, the good news is that they won't burn out just because you get pinholes in them. There's no hot filament or gas discharge in an LED lamp shaped to fit a "traditional" fixture. Of course, you wouldn't want to point the blast gun right at them for extended periods of time ...
PS - I've installed numerous LED light strips for a friend who owns a store and wanted to illuminate the merchandise. Love 'em! One especially nice thing about them is that they're electrically safe - 12 volts DC. I power them with wall warts bought at Goodwill. Two comments:
1. The "peel and stick" adhesive isn't too good, especially for extended periods of time. I always add dabs of "GO2" adhesive every few inches along both sides.
2. I've seen at least one "outdoor" grade LED light strip, fully factory coated with some kind of clear rubbery material, where the coating started to discolor. It eventually blackened. I'd strongly prefer
@Bi11Hudson's idea of mounting the light strip in a fluorescent lamp protector. Maybe mount the light strip on a narrow piece of metal or wood, secure it with GO2, then slip this into the protector when the glue has set.