Replacing upper drive belt on early HLV

[mtnflyer]

I have an early HLV (not H) that needs new drive belts and I started down the path of tapping the spindle forward per the HLV user manual. When the spindle didn't budge with some gentle persuasion with a dead blow hammer, I stopped as I'm concerned my lathe might be in the Group 124-399 range that the manual warns must be returned to the Elmira, NY factory for belt replacements. I've searched high and low for the serial number on this lathe and don't see one. Where do they hide the serial number on these early lathes? Can I tell if I have one of the spindles that shouldn't be driven out without knowing the serial number?

 

[Technical Ted]

If it was me, I would use a link type belt. I bought a Cataract lathe and the previous owner tore down the spindle to replace the belts and ran into a lot of trouble with cork seals. Your lathe might be different, but the link belts will eliminate the need to tear the spindle out.

Ted

 

[Braeden P]

on my Hardinge TR-59 it is on the back of the headstock it could also be at the end of the ways or anywhere.

 

[Braeden P]

it is on the bed and close to where the collet closer mounts

 

[f350ca]

I'll TRY and remember to look where mine is stamped and let you know. I was LUCKY and own number 400. As a note, the new belts I got from Hardinge are made in Mexico, they don't run very smooth, have had them on for several years now and they are getting beter, but still have a slight flutter that you can feel in the machine.

Greg

 

[mtnflyer]

it is on the bed and close to where the collet closer mounts

Not on mine. I've got the early HLV narrow bed. No serial number on the bed casting.

 

[f350ca]

Took a bit of searching, been a while since I refurbished it. Its stamped on the top of the lug that the collet closer mounts on.
HLV-3
400-3
Is stamped in mine.
Don't have a collet closer, mine uses a draw tube, if it had one I never would have found it.

Greg