Sheldon No. 0 Horizontal Mill Followed Me Home!

There are still colleges that have these machines in storage? I’m sure it has not been used in 30 years or more. If I had come across it, it probably would have followed me honestly too. I guess a small horizontal mill or planer would be one the other basic manual machines I haven’t collected yet myself.


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That was a great find and score.

I would like to have a horizontal milling machine... I had the hots for one of those small Atlas MFC units. But they have gotten stupid expensive. A want, not a need... so I stopped looking.
Barker PM’s and AM’s are another good one.
 
There are still colleges that have these machines in storage? I’m sure it has not been used in 30 years or more. If I had come across it, it probably would have followed me honestly too. I guess a small horizontal mill or planer would be one the other basic manual machines I haven’t collected yet myself.
I guess so! I believe it hasn't been used in decades as well. The grease in the drive system was so dried up it was like caulk! Luckily that was an easy fix. They had a storage area for older machines and that's where this was. They actually had a South Bend 10K in the same area, that was in pieces. It appeared to be an active (no dust) overhaul project, but I noted it was made in Korea, so likely 1980s. It seemed that pretty much everything manual, and even some older CNC stuff was being sold. There was a class going on during the preview and it was all CNC robot/laser/plasma type stuff.
 
Posting some follow up info in case it can help others in the future.

I've continued to do a little bit of cleanup (mostly dried grease) and evaluation. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to replace the two wide belts on the Worthington drive system. It works, but one of the belts has stretched more than the other (left in position for years) so it's got a bit of hop and will start to slip at higher speeds. I'll have to remove the drive system to do that, but there's enough room it shouldn't be much of an issue.

I wasn't sure what size machine vise to get for it and was torn between a 4" and 3". I went with the 4" and it's about as big as you would want and wouldn't really work well for the older versions with just a central T-slot in the middle of the table. Mounted to the middle T-slot the vise would stick much too far back towards the column and you'd lose a lot of travel.

Lastly, when I went to remove the arbor it was stuck, stuck, stuck! I've read this is a common issue with the B&S #9 taper. Rather than beat the tar out of it with a big hammer I made two wedges (like those used to remove drill chucks from arbors) and using hammers on opposite sides the arbor popped free in about a minute...easy, peasy! I'll follow up with pics of the wedges later tonight.

Here are some pictures of the Worthington drive since there aren't many posted online. This was before I cleaned up the dried lube, chips and then added fresh grease. This was, by far, the dirtiest part of the machine...win for me! You'll notice the rubber drive belt for the speedometer is off...it was pretty dry and loose. I bought some 5mm textured thermoplastic polyurethane drive belting off eBay for $10...cut to length, melt and stick together...seems to work perfectly.

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Here are pics of the vise just set in place for reference. The vise was only $79 (not pictured is the swivel base) from CME in Madison Heights, MI....seems to move really smooth and the machining on the surfaces is actually quite nice.

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Quick pics of the wedges...make them with a really shallow angle and drive them from opposite sides and the arbor should release easily. I use two fairly small hammers from either side and alternate the strikes or try to time them together. You could probably use a clamp to compress them if you wanted to really go slowly or were having trouble reaching around the arbor.IMG_5860.JPGIMG_5861.JPG
 
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