- Joined
- Oct 28, 2020
- Messages
- 528
Hi All
I am working on a fun project that requires a tapered pin for a mold. 2.045" on the fat end and 38" away on the small end a diameter of 1.675". That's .370 difference over 38 inches. My lathe is a 1440 which sounds like you would have plenty of room, you don't. I needed to work the entire length of the work so rather than use a drive dog that clamps around the work, I centre drilled a bolt then bolted a drive dog to the end of the work. The pic below shows the setup. I had to remove the steel accordion feed screw covers from both sides of the carriage. The tail stock has been offset 0.190". Note the tailstock half off the end of the bed. i had to use a steady rest and turn the taper in sections.
The pin needs 3/8-16 threads in each end, it wouldn't fit my spindle bore so I had to hand drill and tap. I 3d printed a quick, single use custome drill/tap guide, it work pretty good.
The pin is used to form the centre bolckout in a mold. Urethane resin will get cast around it. Once the resin has cured the tapered pin should, (if the casting gods are smiling) be able to be knocked out from the end.
The ultimate goal of the project is to create a test casting to see id the chosen resin will hold up to the intended use.
The mold is for a nozzle. The nozzle gets a concrete mix blown thru it under high pressure. Below is a photo of the two urethane rubber mold halves with the taper pin bolted in place. 3d printed mold end caps.
Here is a closer shot of the inlet end of the nozzle mold. You can see the the threads that will be created in the casting as well as two o-ring grooves. The urethane rubber part of the mold was created by casting around a "master" nozzle.
This is a shot of how the mold box it will be set up to do the finished product pour. It is just a mock up right now I need to do a final clean of the inside, apply release agent and seal the two halves together.
Wish me luck, and say a little prayer to the casting gods for me.
Thanks for looking.
I am working on a fun project that requires a tapered pin for a mold. 2.045" on the fat end and 38" away on the small end a diameter of 1.675". That's .370 difference over 38 inches. My lathe is a 1440 which sounds like you would have plenty of room, you don't. I needed to work the entire length of the work so rather than use a drive dog that clamps around the work, I centre drilled a bolt then bolted a drive dog to the end of the work. The pic below shows the setup. I had to remove the steel accordion feed screw covers from both sides of the carriage. The tail stock has been offset 0.190". Note the tailstock half off the end of the bed. i had to use a steady rest and turn the taper in sections.
The pin needs 3/8-16 threads in each end, it wouldn't fit my spindle bore so I had to hand drill and tap. I 3d printed a quick, single use custome drill/tap guide, it work pretty good.
The pin is used to form the centre bolckout in a mold. Urethane resin will get cast around it. Once the resin has cured the tapered pin should, (if the casting gods are smiling) be able to be knocked out from the end.
The ultimate goal of the project is to create a test casting to see id the chosen resin will hold up to the intended use.
The mold is for a nozzle. The nozzle gets a concrete mix blown thru it under high pressure. Below is a photo of the two urethane rubber mold halves with the taper pin bolted in place. 3d printed mold end caps.
Here is a closer shot of the inlet end of the nozzle mold. You can see the the threads that will be created in the casting as well as two o-ring grooves. The urethane rubber part of the mold was created by casting around a "master" nozzle.
This is a shot of how the mold box it will be set up to do the finished product pour. It is just a mock up right now I need to do a final clean of the inside, apply release agent and seal the two halves together.
Wish me luck, and say a little prayer to the casting gods for me.
Thanks for looking.
