[How do I?] Will opening up bores with radius end mill wear out the radius corners

Can you put a two second dwell at the bottom of the finish cut? "Nice finish you've got there, fella."

The the first question, will it wear the tool? Yes, but carbide versus aluminum won't wear it much.
 
I retired from the trade with 40+ years. I am a seasoned machinist, with years of manual and cnc time, as well as 13 years in management and support roles. I have made thousands of parts in my home shop. I have a tooling question. I make hundreds of the same parts monthly on my floor drill press, P-M manual and cnc vertical mills. I work entirely with grade 6061 aluminum. After nearly 4 years of making these parts I am curious if I am using too many steps in a process. I have a 1/16" deep pocket that I finish mill with a radius corner end mill. In the center of the pocket is a thru hole. I always pre-drill the hole 1/16" undersized on the drill press, then on the cnc I g83 an on size square corner carbide end mill thru to finish the bore 1" deep with a nice finish, come up and rough the pocket. I then change to my same size carbide end mill, with a 1/8" corner radius, and finish the inside diameter of the pocket. I would like to use 1 tool to do both of those operations, saving 3 minutes per part, but I worry about prematurely wearing out my radius corners on the end mill. I try to minimize my tooling budget, use quality brand uncoated carbide end mills, and run conservative chip loads, feeds and speeds. Am I overly concerned. Should I use the radius corner end mill to bore out the hole and rough/finish the pocket in one operation. I just never felt like the ground radius corners are as strong as the original square corners on end mills. I would be mad if my pocket walls have lines from wear caused by boring with the same tool. I do use coolant for boring and for washing away chips during machining. I would appreciate any input. I don't want to rush into a change that will shorten cutter life. Thank you.

I appreciate your explanation of the circumstances surrounding your question.
Because your pocket is only 1/16" deep, the length of cutting edge creating that feature will NEVER touch the surface of the pilot drilled hole.
Not only will you save the tool change, but you will be getting more complete usage from the corner radiused cutter. You will have more cutting edge in the cut, which theoretically could affect surface finish of the hole if the workpiece is thin walled or otherwise not securely held, but you didn't say so. Otherwise, I don't see any reason why the corner radiused cutter would create a rougher surface in the hole, assuming all else is equal.
 
Well, in response to several posts:
(1) I do not post pictures of my products, in full detail, anywhere. My customers do receive an image prior to processing payments. The reason is complicated. I used to sell to USA residents as well as 14 other countries. Then the Chinese copied my product, copied my images and copied my copyright protected ads. The fine folks at eBay would not lift a finger to help. Today there are 200+ Chinese ads selling my previous original design, along with another manufacturers design. Intellectual property rights, copyrights and design patents are not protected from Communist thieves. I completely redesigned that product and am very protective as it is now the only one like it in the world.
(2) I am running 50 parts now just as I always have however I am ordering additional tools to try this process with a single tool.
(3) I trigged out the actual contact points of the radius on the cutter. There indeed is an overlap. If the radius breaks down in the 1/16" smaller drilled hole, that is 0.005"+ off center, it is possible that it will leave a line in the pocket radius wall. The bore cutting edge is ~0.042' from the end of the tool and the pocket is 0.063" deep. I still will try when I receive new tools.

I do appreciate the input. FYI learn from my mistake. Protect your designs.
 
(3) I trigged out the actual contact points of the radius on the cutter. There indeed is an overlap. If the radius breaks down in the 1/16" smaller drilled hole, that is 0.005"+ off center, it is possible that it will leave a line in the pocket radius wall.
Wouldn't making that hole 1/8" smaller instead of 1/16" even out the wear so there's no chance of leaving a line?
 
Well, in response to several posts:
(1) I do not post pictures of my products, in full detail, anywhere. My customers do receive an image prior to processing payments. The reason is complicated. I used to sell to USA residents as well as 14 other countries. Then the Chinese copied my product, copied my images and copied my copyright protected ads. The fine folks at eBay would not lift a finger to help. Today there are 200+ Chinese ads selling my previous original design, along with another manufacturers design. Intellectual property rights, copyrights and design patents are not protected from Communist thieves. I completely redesigned that product and am very protective as it is now the only one like it in the world.
(2) I am running 50 parts now just as I always have however I am ordering additional tools to try this process with a single tool.
(3) I trigged out the actual contact points of the radius on the cutter. There indeed is an overlap. If the radius breaks down in the 1/16" smaller drilled hole, that is 0.005"+ off center, it is possible that it will leave a line in the pocket radius wall. The bore cutting edge is ~0.042' from the end of the tool and the pocket is 0.063" deep. I still will try when I receive new tools.

I do appreciate the input. FYI learn from my mistake. Protect your designs.

WHAT? You said that the cutter has .125" radius corner. That means that, at nominal dimensions, the .063" deep pocket wall is contacting the cutter only 1/2 way up the radius (at cutter radius -.062"). If hole is pilot drilled .063" diameter under finished size, the cutter will be cutting air except the outer .032" of the flutes. The pilot hole would have to be a combination of undersized and/or off true position by a radius of .030" for the "pocket" cutting edge to even intersect the metal in the hole. Surely someone with your vast experience does better than .060 @ MMC for the pilot hole. If not, all bets are off. No trig required for this problem.
 
Well I did the math, bought a tool and found that finish peck boring a rough drilled hole with g83 just doesn't work with a 5/8" 4 flute carbide radius cornered end mill even on 6061 aluminum. Doesn't matter what feeds and speeds are used. Wasn't real thrilled with the grind of the radius either. Just left a chattery finish. Now I know. Not a waste of money because I have another use for the tool. It may have worked using hss feeds and speeds but that defeats the purpose of using carbide. Lesson learned. You never know until you try. This machine has programming limitations so it will not spiral bore with end mills. Nearly 65, with 40+ years in before retiring and still in learning mode. Thanks for the input.
 
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