Changing Blade On Craftsman 108.22921 Horizontal Band Saw

[PGB1]

Hello All!
I apologize if this is something I should be able to figure out. Despite hours of studying & trying I'm stumped about blade changes.
The saw is Sears Craftsman 108.22921 & it's the Clausing version.

When trying to change blades, it's nearly impossible to get the blade between the Pivot Shaft (Part Callout #85: The one with the small bevel gear & the v-belt pulley) and the Drive Wheel (Part Callout #75). I have to twist the blade with needle nose pliers to get it horizontal enough to fit in the space. I'm always afraid that I'll kink the blade metal, knock teeth off or damage teeth on either gear. Even with the hydraulic cylinder removed, the top Frame (Part Callout #40) does not lift high enough.

I noticed that the Pivot Shaft has a groove in it. At first, this seemed purposeful & perhaps helpful, but the groove doesn't help with blade changing. (It might be from previous owner(s) having blades come off & cutting into the shaft.)

In years past, I always ended up removing the top frame for blade changes on the workbench, but as I age the frame gets heavier. It's very difficult for me to lift it into position while securing it in place. And, the manual is mute on blade changing.

Do any of you with this saw have a trick or technique that will make blade changing quicker & safer for the blade?

Thanks For Sharing Your Technique!
Paul

PS: Thanks to all of the generous help I received from people here last month, the saw is performing very well. Several dozen cuts in various materials have been completed with no problems- except the occasional user error.

 

[benmychree]

On other makes of saw, I insert the blade in the guides with very little tension on the blade; blade inserted, tension the blade, no pliers needed.

 

[PGB1]

Thanks Benmychree for taking time to reply & for your suggestion.

The trouble that I'm encountering is that the blade is too tall to fit between the bottom of the wheel and the drive shaft. If I go in flat, there isn't enough clearance to tilt the blade to vertical.

Surely the manufacturer didn't design the saw to require removing the top frame for blade changes. (And the hour to re-align everything.)
There must be a trick that I'm missing.

I didn't explain too well, so one picture is worth more than all of my words... (I Hope!)

Paul

 

[benmychree]

Yes, the picture makes the problem clear, I have only run another saw similar to that, and it did not have the same construction as that one, there was no problem with it. I have always had power hacksaws in my shop, and have little experience with bandsaws other than a Marvel #8, where installation of blades may be a bit involved, but not so difficult.

 

[PGB1]

Thanks Again Benmychree for the time you took to try to help. I appreciate it.
When time allows, I'll re-investigate to find out the secret- then write it down really, really quickly!

Thanks Again & Please Enjoy This Day!
Paul