Head's off:
Not too bad. Was expecting more build up on the piston crowns.
Valves and seats are good. I'll still lightly lap them to clean up the sealing surfaces a bit. No dropped valve seats, which is a problem on these cars if have been overheated.
Intake ports and valves pretty clean, exhaust side is a different story. Lots of coking and build up. Easy clean and back into service though.
Head is stripped and pressure washed. Next is an inspect, lap the valves and then start to reassemble.
My piston rings showed up. turns out the seller substituted "RIK" piston rings without telling me. A little back and forth and they refunded my money. I lost the taxes and duties, but that's better than loosing it all. Have another set on order from a different seller. they assured genuine rings and no substitutions. We'll see whats what when they get here.
I was a bit surprised to find a plastic tube buried behind he engine block in the engine heat. Turns out its the main pipe from water pump to thermostat housing. A little internet research reveals they are another know weak point in the design. This is the wife's car, so I want to make sure it's as reliable as possible. Turns out ecstuning in the 'States offers a tube in powdercoated aluminum:
Was on about 30 bucks more than the original mini plastic one, so I ordered it. Lets see: 15 psi and 200+ degrees. Plastic or aluminum? yeah, that's not a hard choice. Seems the oem ones are prone to cracking off at the o-ring area where it goes into the back of the water pump. Can't do anything about it, it eventually just happens and when it does, you don't know until the car either stops or you see the steam. No temp gauge in the car, at least none you can see without going through a couple menu options. If you run too long like that, the head overheats and the valve seats drop out of their bores. My wife isn't exactly the most "in tune" person with their car, so I need to make it as foolproof for her as possible.
Coming along.....