2016 POTD Thread Archive

Can you tell me did you grind a special cutter for cutting that tooth or tilt the part/head to get the angle sides of the tooth?

Mark

I GROUND THE CUTER BY HAND . IT WAS A 3/8 ENDMILL AND ONLY CUTS WITH ONE FLUTE TO MAKE IT SIMPLER .
IT's NOT A PERFECT TOOTH FORM , I JUST TRIED TO GET IT CLOSE . IT ONLY SERVES AS RELIEF ANYWAY .
 
Made a set of puller jaws for pulling a harmonic balancer. Had them stretch out and fail. Made new set, oil hardened them. Had balancer pull location (cast iron) fail. Balancer still on car, and motor has a new problem.
I have cracked safes that were easier to get into than this damn Dodge 2.7L V-6
 
Nice job on the base. A lot of work involved there, but worth it when you know you will most likely be looking at it for the rest of your life. Mike
 
Finally [mostly] completed my grinder for sharpening lawn mower blades. It's adjustable for what angle to put on the blade, as well as for the grinding wheel wearing down. The plate for putting the blades on is also adjustable up/down and in/out, and also replaceable with a bar for sharpening mulching blades [they have multiple curves, making them non-trivial to sharpen], but I need to get a narrower grinding wheel for doing them. I made it because a similar commercial one costs over $1000US, and I wanted to get better at metalworking [both learning to use a lathe and better at welding and just basic stuff like drilling holes in the right spot]. Still have to fashion a bracket to hold the on/off switch and an enclosure for the grinding wheel for when it grenades on me as well as for spark control.

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I tested it out on a used-up blade and it did a much better job than what I was doing in the past [basically freehand on a bench grinder, eyeballing the angle]. Now the blades will have a consistent angle as well as being sharpened so it gets narrower as you go to the end of the blade [now it's either a curve, a little fat in the middle, or straight out, both of which are wrong and weaken the blade].
 
Could you show your setup in use? I've always done them in the vice with a 4" angle grinder and a file, But I wouldn't mind learning a better method. Thanks, Mike

I tested it out on a used-up blade and it did a much better job than what I was doing in the past [basically freehand on a bench grinder, eyeballing the angle]. Now the blades will have a consistent angle as well as being sharpened so it gets narrower as you go to the end of the blade [now it's either a curve, a little fat in the middle, or straight out, both of which are wrong and weaken the blade].
 
Me too dave_r_1. Like to know a little more on how it holds the blade and the adjuster mechanism.
A video would be good for a how to.

I do the same thing as Mike, vise and angle grinder.
I guess us Mike's do some things the same way. Hey Mike, by chance, did you marry a Redhead too? :big grin:
 
Well, today, I worked on building a trailer to mount my engine hoist to. As some of you know I have a new to me Van Norman #12 that needs to go through a 6' gate to my backyard and through a 32" door into my shop. On a side note, I love drilling holes with that drill press. So quick and effective.

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Sent from my XT1064 using Tapatalk

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Before, I would just eyeball it on a bench grinder like this:
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It got them sharp, but not at a consistent angle, didn't do it evenly over the whole blade and wore some excellent grooves into the aluminum support on the bench grinder. Doing it with an angle grinder probably would do a better job than this.

With the one I built, it's pretty easy. Just hold the blade flat against the support plate and go back and forth.
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The grinding wheel runs in reverse [also did a reverse thread on the axle I made, so the grinding wheel wouldn't spin itself off], as it would probably wind up grabbing the steel and wedging it in the wheel and the support due to the sharp angle if it went CCW like a bench grinder. I'm using a 1HP 220V motor to run the wheel at about 3300 RPM.

I have a landscaping company and I sharpen a bunch of blades every week, this will make sharpening blades easier and more consistent then the old method I was using.

It's roughly modeled after the Magna-matic MAG-8000. I'll probably wind up buying their narrow grinding stone for doing mulching blades if I can't find a narrower one in a local store.

I'll get a side shot of the platform/grinding wheel and see if I can made some kind of short video showing how the various adjustments work.

You can see how the blade grinding process works from this video [using the Mag-9000, my setup works the same]:
 
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Michael, That is a monster Drill Press.
I almost bought one at an auction for less than $50, but I was by myself and had no way to load it or space for it at the time.
I kick myself now wishing I had got it. It looked something like the one Keith Fenner has in his shop.
 
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