Lathe comparison - Near Future Purchase

[borjawil]

Sorry to clutter the forum up! In my other posting I compared a TH Atlas and Logan 200. Logan 200 won out due to no change gear set with the atlas and being $200 less.

I have a couple more lathes to look at this even while I go see the Logan 200.

These lathes are a Craftsman 10d-246 with some extra parts/tooling. and an unidentified logan that comes with a second tail stock that was repaired(welded), extra chuck, and tooling. I am including pics of both here. Both seems to be in the same shape. The craftsman compares in price to the Logan 200 at approx $600, where as the mystery lathe comes in at $4-500.

I appreciate all the help and guidance and will be making a selection possibly this evening.

Side question - on the logan there is a big ol pulley off the back. Ive seen it on some older lathes. Design for a certain purpose? Other function? Pros/cons?

 

[Nogoingback]

Do you have a micrometer or some calipers? If so, a quick way to assess bed wear is to measure the thickness at the back (flat part) of the lathe bed. Take measurements near the chuck, where the
wear occurs, and at the tailstock end. Not perfect, but quick and easy and you can compare the numbers for the different lathes you're looking at.

 

[borjawil]

great idea! I actually found another logan 200 thats been "restored" and comes with extra chucks, live center, drill chuck, tooling, extra gear set, etc. for $800. Could pass up the deal!

 

[tq60]

Sorry to clutter the forum up! In my other posting I compared a TH Atlas and Logan 200. Logan 200 won out due to no change gear set with the atlas and being $200 less.

I have a couple more lathes to look at this even while I go see the Logan 200.

These lathes are a Craftsman 10d-246 with some extra parts/tooling. and an unidentified logan that comes with a second tail stock that was repaired(welded), extra chuck, and tooling. I am including pics of both here. Both seems to be in the same shape. The craftsman compares in price to the Logan 200 at approx $600, where as the mystery lathe comes in at $4-500.

I appreciate all the help and guidance and will be making a selection possibly this evening.

Side question - on the logan there is a big ol pulley off the back. Ive seen it on some older lathes. Design for a certain purpose? Other function? Pros/cons?

That is just another way of doing things.

Our Logan is similar to this.

It is a lot cheaper to produce so cheaper to sell and given ours was a wards unit then price was a factor against sears and their atlas made units.

Allows maybe more options relating to motor selections and installation as nothing fixed in place by large cast iron castings.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

 

[tq60]

Do you have a micrometer or some calipers? If so, a quick way to assess bed wear is to measure the thickness at the back (flat part) of the lathe bed. Take measurements near the chuck, where the
wear occurs, and at the tailstock end. Not perfect, but quick and easy and you can compare the numbers for the different lathes you're looking at.

Easy "poor man's" way to test the bed and carriage wear is to imagine making a cut on something in the chuck by placing the carriage in the spot where it would be to make that cut.

Next locate the carriage lock which is usually a bolt along the right side and turn it while moving carriage back and forth until the carriage just stops then turn back until it just moves.

This now is set to net wear point.

Move carriage towards tailstock and when it stops there the wear is less.

You can open it a bit and repeat and with this process you can get a general idea of how bad any way to carriage net wear is without anything other that an adjustable wrench.

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[T Bredehoft]

In your first picture, above, I noticed that one of the two tumbler gears is missing .This missing gear would keep you from reversing your feed, you could not feed away from the chuck. Its probably no big deal, it may be there somewhere, but its a talking point if not present.

 

[borjawil]

Good spot. The lathe I'm likely picking up tomorrow is a logan 200. here are pics. He says the bed is excellent, change gear set, 3 and 4 jaw chuck, tooling, 4 way tool post (not qctp). Wha would be a fair price?

 

[Glenn Brooks]

Most important thing is to find a machine with minimal bed wear. If the ways are worn, no amount of new paint will ever help you make repeatable, usable parts.

Another way to quickly check wear is to look closely at the bottom of the saddle where it contacts the ways, and separately inspect underneath the tailstock. If the tailstock slides are worn you will be able to easily detect the wear with your thumb. (I've got over .010" wear on one side of the tailstock on my old big iron lathe. 3x that under the chuck on the ways). Same with the saddle, unacceptable wear means the saddle will droop down over the outside edge of the ways a bit.

All the parts of a lathe work together. Indeed the saddle actually abrades the ways, and vice versa. So wear on the ways shows up on the bottom of the tailstock and the contact surfaces of the saddle.

Good luck! Buying a new lathe is fun!

Glenn

 

[joebiplane]

Sorry to clutter the forum up! In my other posting I compared a TH Atlas and Logan 200. Logan 200 won out due to no change gear set with the atlas and being $200 less.

I have a couple more lathes to look at this even while I go see the Logan 200.

These lathes are a Craftsman 10d-246 with some extra parts/tooling. and an unidentified logan that comes with a second tail stock that was repaired(welded), extra chuck, and tooling. I am including pics of both here. Both seems to be in the same shape. The craftsman compares in price to the Logan 200 at approx $600, where as the mystery lathe comes in at $4-500.

I appreciate all the help and guidance and will be making a selection possibly this evening.

Side question - on the logan there is a big ol pulley off the back. Ive seen it on some older lathes. Design for a certain purpose? Other function? Pros/cons?

 

[joebiplane]

If your talking about the Big O; pully in your attachment
That's what makes it go when the motor is turned on
LOL