Milling t slot nuts that I bought

Issue #1: I goofed and order t slot nuts for my Shars x-y table with a 5/8" threaded hole instead of for a 5/8" slot. They are case hardened. Can they be milled or do I just order the correct ones?

Issue #2: I also ordered nuts for my P&W 3C mill and they fit pretty darn well except just a hair too tall, so I need to mill them too.

The nuts are Shars and it doesn't say what type of steel.

 

Of course they can be milled - but the tooling cost may be higher than simply purchasing smaller T-nuts. What size bolting / studs are you planning to use? Did you buy a set, or just nuts? Obviously the nuts need to match the intended bolting. Just make your own T-nuts. I find it useful to add to the standard set of nuts some nuts that are drilled and tapped smaller - sometimes they are very handy for different set ups.

Issue #2 - trimming nuts? Yes. I have an unusual little European mill and the bottom part of the standard 3/8 threaded hole T-nut was a little too wide. Since I had a mill, the issue was soon rectified. I don't know what the hardness is of these nuts, but it wasn't a big deal.

If the hardness is a problem, you can try heating them a dull red and slow cooling (draw the temper a bit).

Let us know how you make out. David

 

if you decide to make your own T nuts make a long 6-12 in piece and then cut out the individual T nuts from the strip

 

In my most recent manufacture of tee nuts I tried to simulate the bolt stopping feature found in "factory made" by stopping my tap at the bottom of the nut. Obviously the long tapered tap left some uncut threads as did the tap with the 5 tapered threads. When I used the bottoming tap I quit after 1 revolution when I felt the tap starting to cut metal. Haven't got to use them but once , they did not go to the bottom of the Tee slot.
Have a good day
Ray

 

They can be milled, but since the hole is 5/8" you will be breaking into the threaded portion when you do. A better course of action would be to either return them for the proper size, or make your own. Over the years I've made hundreds of different sizes and lengths. For most applications they do not need to be hardened.

 

In my most recent manufacture of tee nuts I tried to simulate the bolt stopping feature found in "factory made" by stopping my tap at the bottom of the nut. Obviously the long tapered tap left some uncut threads as did the tap with the 5 tapered threads. When I used the bottoming tap I quit after 1 revolution when I felt the tap starting to cut metal. Haven't got to use them but once , they did not go to the bottom of the Tee slot.
Have a good day
Ray

Good point rock_breaker people have been caught and broken tops out of slots by cranking a bolt through and jacking a piece out. I just tap all the way through because it is easier then run a shortened bolt into the T-nut and holding in a vice peen a couple of places around the hole with a center punch as if staking. Creates a positive stop in the thread at the bottom just like a bought one.