Enco with grizzly change gears?

To get true metric conversion on an Imperial lathe will require a 127 and 120(or 100) tooth pair. Any gear will work so long as it is this tooth count. Where things get complicated is the tooth size and/or form that will mesh with what you have on your machine.

Size is determined by Diametrical Pitch (DP, US) or (more likely, metric) Modulus. It either matches. . . or it doesn't. Tooth form is a matter of pressure angle. On straight cut spur gears, 14-1/2 degree will run a little quieter, 20 degree is stronger. There's always a Pro-Con in any situation. Metric gears, Modulus, generally tend to be 20 degrees. Generally, not always. Different PAs will almost mesh, but not close enough to trust for threading. And certainly not well enough for power transmission.

There are some combinations that will give "almost" metric threads. 44 and 52 are a common combination for my Atlas/C'man machine. I don't use them, for several reasons. Foremost because I have another machine that does do true metric threads. And I have a plastic pair for the Atlas that works well enough the little I need it. But the gears are easy enough to acquire if I did want them.

Such a combination will cut almost metric threads that are usable for fasteners and other short threads. But they are not recommended for long threads such as "all thread". A metric 1.0mm pitch is 25.4 TPI. If you were to cut 25.3 or 25.5 threads you would cut smooth enough to use on a foreign car. But for a lead screw on something, it might or might not work. It would depend on how many threads were in the follower.

Threading gears do not transfer power, they are only "timing" gears. As such, many people use plastic gears that are 3D printed. But unless you have a 3D printer and proper gear software and know how to use it, compensating someone else for making them will cost about the same as buying steel gears from a vendor. And truth be known, I would prefer metal timing gears. Just old school, me.

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To get true metric conversion on an Imperial lathe will require a 127 and 120(or 100) tooth pair. Any gear will work so long as it is this tooth count. Where things get complicated is the tooth size and/or form that will mesh with what you have on your machine.

Size is determined by Diametrical Pitch (DP, US) or (more likely, metric) Modulus. It either matches. . . or it doesn't. Tooth form is a matter of pressure angle. On straight cut spur gears, 14-1/2 degree will run a little quieter, 20 degree is stronger. There's always a Pro-Con in any situation. Metric gears, Modulus, generally tend to be 20 degrees. Generally, not always. Different PAs will almost mesh, but not close enough to trust for threading. And certainly not well enough for power transmission.

There are some combinations that will give "almost" metric threads. 44 and 52 are a common combination for my Atlas/C'man machine. I don't use them, for several reasons. Foremost because I have another machine that does do true metric threads. And I have a plastic pair for the Atlas that works well enough the little I need it. But the gears are easy enough to acquire if I did want them.

Such a combination will cut almost metric threads that are usable for fasteners and other short threads. But they are not recommended for long threads such as "all thread". A metric 1.0mm pitch is 25.4 TPI. If you were to cut 25.3 or 25.5 threads you would cut smooth enough to use on a foreign car. But for a lead screw on something, it might or might not work. It would depend on how many threads were in the follower.

Threading gears do not transfer power, they are only "timing" gears. As such, many people use plastic gears that are 3D printed. But unless you have a 3D printer and proper gear software and know how to use it, compensating someone else for making them will cost about the same as buying steel gears from a vendor. And truth be known, I would prefer metal timing gears. Just old school, me.

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Whoa! A human machinery's handbook! That's one hell of an answer. I just learned a lot. That's super thank you! I would mostly be doing bend post for foreign tube benders and their mandrel rods. Soooo it's sounding like almost will be just dandy since none of these are very long treads...usually about 3 inches long. Yes I do have a printer and CAD software that I use daily. But I do agree I'd much rather have metal.

Well looks like we have our answer boys and gals. If almost is good enough. I did see tubalcain Mr Pete made some 3d printed gears with success. Maybe it'll work in a pinch.... While waiting on a real one in the mail. But obviously steel is better.

Thanks again.
 
30% infill is sufficient, but you can go denser if you want , only slightly stronger if you do , but increases print time.

PLA is quite sufficient, some folks like nylon or bronze impregnated nylon- you are not limited to any one filament.

i use .8 wall thickness, 4 lines count

1.12 top and bottom thickness, 4 lines count
 
30% infill is sufficient, but you can go denser if you want , only slightly stronger if you do , but increases print time.

PLA is quite sufficient, some folks like nylon or bronze impregnated nylon- you are not limited to any one filament.

i use .8 wall thickness, 4 lines count

1.12 top and bottom thickness, 4 lines count
Sounds pretty standard... impressive.
 
If the Grizzly gears don’t work, you can get metric gears from Maedler, you might need to change the bore and add a key slot, but should be able to get whatever tooth count you need in the proper module size.


To check what module you have, divide the outer diameter by N +2 where N is the tooth count.
 
I don't know how the Grizzly gears would help you. My G4003G inserts an 86 to 91 reduction into the gear train when doing metric threads. The metric chart for your lathe just shows a single 80T gear.
 
I don't know how the Grizzly gears would help you. My G4003G inserts an 86 to 91 reduction into the gear train when doing metric threads. The metric chart for your lathe just shows a single 80T gear.
That's what I was thinking. But mentioned earlier if the module is the same it shouldn't matter...only the speed would change...I think...I have yet to try it. I have not ordered an gears....yet.
 
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