- Joined
- Oct 7, 2023
- Messages
- 7
I have been lurking on here for months but I have finally ran into an into a problem that I can't seem to find a fix for by reading though the forums. I am in need of help from you smart electrical guys so here goes.
I was given a used 13 year old Birmingham 1126 lathe. The motor was pretty much shot so I took it to a re-builder who advised buying a new motor rather than trying to fix it.
The motor is a Chinese 1 hp, model YL8024. As it turns out the ShopFox M1088 sold by Grizzly uses the same motor. The motor and wiring diagrams are the same as the Birmingham however the contactor is wired differently. Anyhow I ordered a new motor along with two new capacitors.
My problem is that when I connect all the wires to the motor without any jumpers (the original configuration}, all the motor does is hum in both Forward and Reverse. I am using the original drum switch for all the tests. I can get it to run Forward if I jump connections (U1-V1) however If I jump connections (W2-U2) and turn to Reverse, the switch sparks and throws the breaker. If I jump V1-U2 it hums. And finally connecting W2-U1 throws the breaker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Tested and installed new motor
- Capacitance tested and installed the start & run capacitors
- I bought a new 26-20 switch. (I installed it but nothing worked at all so from reading other threads on here I am going to need to do some configuring.) Anyhow I didn't want to introduce new problems so I reinstalled the old switch
- Disconnected all wires and tested for continuity. All were fine.
- Tested the e-stop and start buttons and they both appear to operate correctly
- Tested the contactor. The coils have ohm readings and the contacts have continuity when active. All the contacts look clean.
I have included pics of the connections and a snippit from the M1088 user manual showing those connections.
I am considering buying a new capacitor that is on the M1088 parts list. It is the same model number as the one I have but it is wired differently. ie no jumper wires. My guess is that I'll have to figure out the drum switch as well. I thought I'd see if anyone has any suggestions before replacing more parts.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Carl
I was given a used 13 year old Birmingham 1126 lathe. The motor was pretty much shot so I took it to a re-builder who advised buying a new motor rather than trying to fix it.
The motor is a Chinese 1 hp, model YL8024. As it turns out the ShopFox M1088 sold by Grizzly uses the same motor. The motor and wiring diagrams are the same as the Birmingham however the contactor is wired differently. Anyhow I ordered a new motor along with two new capacitors.
My problem is that when I connect all the wires to the motor without any jumpers (the original configuration}, all the motor does is hum in both Forward and Reverse. I am using the original drum switch for all the tests. I can get it to run Forward if I jump connections (U1-V1) however If I jump connections (W2-U2) and turn to Reverse, the switch sparks and throws the breaker. If I jump V1-U2 it hums. And finally connecting W2-U1 throws the breaker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Tested and installed new motor
- Capacitance tested and installed the start & run capacitors
- I bought a new 26-20 switch. (I installed it but nothing worked at all so from reading other threads on here I am going to need to do some configuring.) Anyhow I didn't want to introduce new problems so I reinstalled the old switch
- Disconnected all wires and tested for continuity. All were fine.
- Tested the e-stop and start buttons and they both appear to operate correctly
- Tested the contactor. The coils have ohm readings and the contacts have continuity when active. All the contacts look clean.
I have included pics of the connections and a snippit from the M1088 user manual showing those connections.
I am considering buying a new capacitor that is on the M1088 parts list. It is the same model number as the one I have but it is wired differently. ie no jumper wires. My guess is that I'll have to figure out the drum switch as well. I thought I'd see if anyone has any suggestions before replacing more parts.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Carl