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2016 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter sanddan
- Start date
I finally had a need for an old timey center indicator like Tubal Cain has shown in one of his videos. An afternoon project and it actually works, takes a little time to "learn" how to use it, but I aligned this piece up in a four jaw chuck in about 15 minuets. Figure I could beat that by half time next time. It was a fun little project that will hang on the wall behind the lathe, until I die, I suppose. I will walk back up to the shop tomorrow, in the snow, and take and post a couple more pictures with some dimensions that will maybe help someone else.
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- Joined
- Aug 19, 2013
- Messages
- 764
I like the rod end solution. It's an off-the-shelf gymbal. (SP ?) A simple & elegant design that provides reasonable accuracy.
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2015
- Messages
- 2,558
1962.
Color: silver mink.
Well, what isn't rust is silver mink.......
I'm conflicted on what to do with it. It's a unibody, but it's rusty as heck and would have to be rebuilt with formed sections.
While I could do it, I'm not sure I want to do it. Just a PITA. I've come to despise rust repair over the years. Gimme a rust free body and a blown drivetrain over a rusty body anyday.
I've gone through everything from restoring it to channeling it and sliding a complete frame under it.
Everything from making it a fastback to an open air roadster.
Right now it's under about a foot of snow sitting in a friends field.
I might just sell it off for whatever I can get. Since we moved into our current house, I just don't have the room for it.
My 83 mustang is also sitting beside it in the same field .....
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What timing, I was just thinking on how to make one of these.
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2014
- Messages
- 613
Got 3 trees to bring down, log out, and split. And I've been fighting a plugged up low-speed circuit in the carb on my el-cheap-o Homelite chainsaw all friggin' morning. She runs like a banshee once the revs are right, (high), but dogs like crazy when it starts to bog down. I'm seriously about to use the high speed remote hole punch (.45 caliber) on this thing and go spend the money on a $350 Echo chainsaw. I know, I know, it's because I didn't need to use it during the summer, and I slacked off in running it once in awhile to keep the passages clear. But it's annoying as all heck. Despite being a Homelite, when it runs decent it's actually a usable tool. Shoulda learnt' my lesson on weedeaters. My wife threw a conniption fit when I bought a $350 line trimmer, Echo of course..... But she realized the value of it because you choke it, pump the bulb 3-4 times, pull it over till it sputters, then take the choke off, give it a pull, and it's running. Quality tools. The Homelight she bought would flat wear you out trying to start it. I swear I could have pulled the weeds faster by hand than by the time that thing was running.
I've been burning pallets, because work gets them by the metric ton, we have 60-70 in storage, and they're free. I do need a pallet discombobulator though. I've been using a SawZall with a demolition blade to cut the slats, and manhandling the rest of it apart. I enjoy the activity, but these are nice oak pallets, and I'd like to re-use some of the decent wood. The pine ones do go up good in the firepit or fireplace, though. Note to self - get a creosote clearing log this weekend.
So, that's my POTD. Trying to resist the urge to feed my chainsaw into a chipper-shredder, remote-hole-punch it (with it running full tilt, of course), or go buy an expensive chainsaw I'll use a couple of times a year........
Raggin' Fraggin Bezaggin' two-bit low down chunk of haragin' laggin' poo chainsaw.
If you can make an adaptor or have an adaptor & a small compression tester why not do a dry compression test , then put a teaspoon of engine oil in the cylinder refit the tester & see what the difference is .
Most chainsaws have a fairly low compression test in the region of 15 to 18 pounds per square inch , if the dry test figure is much below 16 PSI and it comes up to the 20's when you do the wet test perhaps think of putting a new barrel & piston on the saw for it most likely that it is worn out . The symptom you 'vedescribed is a classical one for a worn out barrel & piston .
Do you use the fuel saver additive , one that stops the fuel oxidising /degrading after a few months of pulling out the garage's forecourt pump , or if fuel has been left in the machine over a period of two or three months ?
Do you run you saw dry after each period of use ?
Do you only make enough two stroke mix ( if it is a two stroke machine ) to see you just have enough to do the task ..stored ready made mix deteriorates a fair bit and if you don't shake the container that the mix is in it will have tended to start separating. Thus leaving you with some mix with too much oil and some with not enough oil in the mix & that's where you get excessive wear if it's high in petrol content or you start to get oiled plugs if the fuel component has too much oil .
Another problem of having a two stroke machine with fuel in it for a few months of non use is that the higher volatile spirits start to evaporate inn the galleries of the carb and leave you with thick oil in the slow running or main jets , it also sticks diaphragms and leaf flap valves nicely. Frequently the slightest bit of dust in th fuel is soon attracted and then jets gets blocked well & truly .
Also check the air vent in the fuel filler plug in case it is partially blocked with fine wood dust as that gives some amusing & interesting symptoms .
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- Joined
- Oct 20, 2014
- Messages
- 495
Yeah, I know. It's my fault. I last used it in March, to chop up a big honkin' branch that fell down outside my shop (and conked me on the way down....ouch). Didn't occur to me until today that I hadn't put any stabilizer in the fuel, mostly because my wife mixed that batch. I remember, because she called me ranting that she couldn't find the two stroke oil. Despite that it was on the shelf next to the fuel can, with a label that said "Echo 2 stroke oil", etc, etc, etc. I didn't add any stabilizer, and I know she wouldn't have. From it's behavior, it's the low speed circuit that's gunked up. I do have an ultrasonic cleaner, and use it frequently. Just got to get the carb off that hunk of junk, which involved a run to Ace Hardware for a torx screwdriver set because they tucked those torx screws waaaaay down where an adapter with a torx bit can't reach. :/ Burning more pallet wood tonight (it's 33 right now on the back porch), and will get a dozen pallets from work on Monday.
While I *really* want a nice Echo saw, I just can't justify it because this one runs fine with the exception of the carb. And I know I can fix that easily. Though, I will say that I won't baby this thing. I won't deliberately set out to kill it, but I will work the heck out of it when I do use it. If it does die, well... then I'll just have to go buy an Echo, won't I?)
While I *really* want a nice Echo saw, I just can't justify it because this one runs fine with the exception of the carb. And I know I can fix that easily. Though, I will say that I won't baby this thing. I won't deliberately set out to kill it, but I will work the heck out of it when I do use it. If it does die, well... then I'll just have to go buy an Echo, won't I?
)
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,199
I have an echo saw, hasn't given me one single issue, first thing I did was grind the rakes off the chain for a more aggressive cut, which by the way I don't recommend that anyone do that, that's just my personal preference, you lose some safety doing that, it can cause the saw to kick if your not in total control, but it sure does pull them noodles off the log