Adult Drawbar For My Pm25-mv

lcorley

lcorley

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I don't like the little 8mm square drawbar top on my PM25-MV. I decided to make a replacement with a 3/4 hex, just like the big boys. I got a piece of 1/2" CRS rod and threaded it on the bottom for 7/16-20. I threaded the top 1/2-13 and used a coupling nut from Home Depot. So far, so good. Here's a couple of pix.
drawbar comparison.jpg

installed.jpg


regards,
Leon
 
I thought this thread would have more scantly clad women :(
 
Well he could put a brass piece in the coupling nut and have it as a knocker. Turn it and thread it screw it in , a 3/4" x 1" long should make it. The coupling nut won't get destroyed to easily either.
 
Another one of those "so simple I should have thought of it" threads!

Did you put threadlocker on the coupling side?
 
I was thinking the same thing about thread locker. Or cross drilling the whole assembly and tapping in a roll pin.
 
Nice. Did something similar to my mill where I used 4140 all-thread, a coupling nut, and made a new spacer/washer to accurately center the drawbar. Used thread locker on the coupling nut.
 
wrmiller said:
Nice. Did something similar to my mill where I used 4140 all-thread, a coupling nut, and made a new spacer/washer to accurately center the drawbar. Used thread locker on the coupling nut.
Click to expand...

So this makes me think. The drawbar on my Rockler is wobbly when loose. Is it supposed to be centered in the top of the spindle? Should the drawbar be in some kind of a bushing at the top?
 
My original drawbar was wobbly in it's original flat bushing at the top of the spindle, which pretty much guaranteed the drawbar wasn't centered when tightened. With the original six-speed gearhead design, I don't think this was much of a big deal. But when I converted to belt-drive and VFD I am now capable of 5k plus spindle rpm so having things centered became a bit more important to me. So I made a flat-topped bushing that 'just' clears the spindle ID and drawbar OD. Noticeably smoother at higher spindle rpms.
 
I planned on using locktite to hold the coupling nut but I couldn't find my tube of it. So, for now, I'm just relying on having the coupling nut tight enough that it doesn't back out.
I have some 1/8" roll pins, but I'd have to use the old drawbar to hold the drill chuck in while I drilled for them. Seems kind of like a step backwards (or at least sideways)

regards,
Leon
 
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