- Joined
- Dec 3, 2015
- Messages
- 243
So I have gotten far enough ahead on my other projects to allow me to finally play with this machine.
My intent is to cut internal key ways on a taper, yup gotta love a challenge.
So I have all aspects planned out, I will mount an $100 3 jaw chuck to a mounting plate so once I have it set I wont need to move anything. I will I will cut the key way at the bottom of the part so I do not have to make any movement other than up and down on the feed dial to cover the different size tapered holes and all the tapers are the same 5*.
So I made a 3/8 X 1 inch bar and silver soldered a 3/8 diameter rod to that on the business end I cut a notch on an angle and silver soldered a Cobalt bit on that end.
All went well as I was making cuts EXCEPT...ya one of those..
As the tool traveled forward the bit did not engage, even after turning the down feed dial to a point where it should have cut. And then all of a sudden it bit and bit hard and took the whole amount I have moved the dial at one time... My theory is this... the spring used to allow the tool to pick up when the machine is on the return stroke is weak and not holding the tool in the proper position during the power stroke.
My machine came with 2 springs in the position the are conical in shape. I think that putting a stronger spring there will result in proper function. I need to be that small on the tool as one of the parts I am making only has a .468 thru hole and I have to cut a 4mm key in that.
To test this I basically set up some flat stock and set the machine to take a cut with power side feed, it did the same thing, UNTIL I held the tool down during the power stroke. Once that was being done it cut just fine. So my long winded question is: What spec do I use for the spring, or do I just get stronger springs until it cuts properly?
I have attached a photo of the tool..
Thanks
Richard
My intent is to cut internal key ways on a taper, yup gotta love a challenge.
So I have all aspects planned out, I will mount an $100 3 jaw chuck to a mounting plate so once I have it set I wont need to move anything. I will I will cut the key way at the bottom of the part so I do not have to make any movement other than up and down on the feed dial to cover the different size tapered holes and all the tapers are the same 5*.
So I made a 3/8 X 1 inch bar and silver soldered a 3/8 diameter rod to that on the business end I cut a notch on an angle and silver soldered a Cobalt bit on that end.
All went well as I was making cuts EXCEPT...ya one of those..
As the tool traveled forward the bit did not engage, even after turning the down feed dial to a point where it should have cut. And then all of a sudden it bit and bit hard and took the whole amount I have moved the dial at one time... My theory is this... the spring used to allow the tool to pick up when the machine is on the return stroke is weak and not holding the tool in the proper position during the power stroke.
My machine came with 2 springs in the position the are conical in shape. I think that putting a stronger spring there will result in proper function. I need to be that small on the tool as one of the parts I am making only has a .468 thru hole and I have to cut a 4mm key in that.
To test this I basically set up some flat stock and set the machine to take a cut with power side feed, it did the same thing, UNTIL I held the tool down during the power stroke. Once that was being done it cut just fine. So my long winded question is: What spec do I use for the spring, or do I just get stronger springs until it cuts properly?
I have attached a photo of the tool..
Thanks
Richard