Another PM1236 install

[Morgan RedHawk]

Now that you mention it, I do seem to remember seeing that the dial can be disengaged from the lead screw when not in use to prevent wear. Maybe one of the experienced members will sound off on it. I'm afraid I am just a newb.

 

[tertiaryjim]

Its common to rotate the thread dial's gear away from the lead screw when not needed for threading or to remove the dial.
Over the years, many years if you keep the machine clean and lubed, it can make a difference in wear.

Biggest problem with doing so is that some people tighten the bolt that holds the dial in place too tight and it will end up stripped.
There is never any designed load on the thread dial so it only needs to be tightened enough so it won't slip from engagement when in use.

Congrats for getting your new lathe up and running.
Now there's years of learning and building new skills.

 

[Rapscallion]

Looks exiting. I'm sure your going to have lots of fun. )

 

[zmotorsports]

Great thread, congrats on your new lathe. Thanks for sharing. Now be certain to share some of the projects that you make with it.

By the way, it looks great sitting next to your 932 milling machine.

Mike.

 

[johnnyc14]

Nice write up and an nice job on the base for your lathe. I too used Gary K's plans when I built the base for my lathe. I lifted my lathe the using the same type of engine lift you used, but I reduced the "pucker factor" as Morgan Redhawk put it, by wrapping the lifting strap once completely around the bed of the lathe so it chokes down on the bed as you lift and prevents the strap from slipping even if the machine tilts.:bitingnails:

You're going to have a lot of fun with that machine.

Cheers,

John

 

[Ray C]

Thank you for the info, Lyn! Don't worry, careful is the name of the game. If I do end up utilizing the pallet-out,stand-in beneath the hoisted lathe method, I will be employing a dolly and rope to move them. I never trust hydraulics enough to be anywhere I could be caught beneath the load should they fail.

I think I will be giving the maneuver-the-crane method some consideration, though. Seems like a better way to get it leveled initially.

Did you have to shim it at all?

Oh, and I just noticed...check your threading dial, it looks like it is on backwards..

Guys,

Whenever I use a shop crane, I totally minimize any amount of lifting and attempting to roll the unit any great distance. One thing you can do, is lift the unit and then set the machine down on the legs, then roll the whole unit to a different location. Keep a little tension on the strap in case it wants to tip a little. That's pretty safe but care and caution must always be observed.

When I use a shop crane to put things on a bench, I get it as close to the final destination as possible then, lift high enough to put the bench underneath the machine then, set the machine on the bench. To shimmy the machine to the exact final location, I keep the crane attached to lift most of the weight off and use crowbars or J-bars to inch the machine to the final location.

If at any time you must put your fingers underneath a suspended machine (to line-up bolts etc) put a block of solid wood at least as wide as your fingers to protect yourself.

FWIW, my preferred method of lifting things is to use a gantry but, they're not as common or inexpensive as shop cranes. If you have the facilities, consider a gantry as your long-term lifting tool.

Also, just as an aside, the thread chaser on Lynrob's machine is fine. It's just swung out of the way and not engaging the leadscrew. I often disengage mine when not using it for threading.


Ray

 

[Ray C]

Nice write up and an nice job on the base for your lathe. I too used Gary K's plans when I built the base for my lathe. I lifted my lathe the using the same type of engine lift you used, but I reduced the "pucker factor" as Motgan Redhawk put it, by wrapping the lifting strap once completely around the bed of the lathe so it chokes down on the bed as you lift and prevents the strap from slipping even if the machine tilts.:bitingnails:

You're going to have a lot of fun with that machine.

Cheers,

John

Glad you posted this... Folks please notice the block of wood that John used to keep the strap off the feedrod and leadscrew. It never fails, in every batch of machines that we deliver at least one person calls-up with a bent leadscrew and it's usually from not protecting it during the lift.

I have a nice piece of t-shaped angle iron just for this purpose. If you use a block of wood, use something as wide as possible so it doesn't flop over under pressure or when the strap stretches from weight.


Ray