[How-To] Are these what I need??

finsruskw

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Just getting started and realized I do not have any parting blades.

.

Is this what I need in terms of blades?
If not, could someone please point me in the right direction?
I have the phase II 250-107 holder that came with the QCTP set I purchases last spring

DSCN8015.JPG
 
I have both 1/8" and 1/16" I have used both and they work fine, albeit the 1/26" is a mite slower if that matters.
 
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I have both /18" and 1/16" I have used both and they work fine, albeit the 1/18" is a mite slower if that matters.
Will they work for all metals besides mild steel?
 
I've used them in 12L, 1018 and 6061. I have some 4130 but haven't needed it yet.
 
Got 'em ordered along with a live center for the tailstock.
I have a lot of learning to do here for sure.
For one, I think I have to turn the jaws around on the chuck to turn a 6" piece of 1-1/8" rod.
Tried it last evening and could not keep it from moving from side to side.
Also, are the keys for these chicks a weird size ot metric?
It's smaller that 3/8 and larger than 1/4" and I have a heck of a time getting it tight with a ratchet and short extension.\ as I do not have a key for it.
But then what can I expect for only $25$!!
It's a 3 jaw and the guy has a 4 jaw he'll let go for $50??
 
Got 'em ordered along with a live center for the tailstock.
I have a lot of learning to do here for sure.
For one, I think I have to turn the jaws around on the chuck to turn a 6" piece of 1-1/8" rod.
Tried it last evening and could not keep it from moving from side to side.
Also, are the keys for these chicks a weird size ot metric?
It's smaller that 3/8 and larger than 1/4" and I have a heck of a time getting it tight with a ratchet and short extension.\ as I do not have a key for it.
But then what can I expect for only $25$!!
It's a 3 jaw and the guy has a 4 jaw he'll let go for $50??
Interesting, I've never measured my chuck keys. I know that some folk use ratchets to tighten their chucks.
I see a project in your future :D
 
You're going to have to be more specific. What lathe? What chuck? What metal?

As for blades, I use the 1/16". Being smaller, it puts less stress on the blade from the cut. If done wrong, the blade is also easy to break.

As for the chuck key, just make your own. Just use a file on a piece of round stock if you have to.
 
This is with the 9A I just finished and started to se what I could do with it.
The chuck is a 5" no name $25 used cheapo (and probably abused as well)
Could find no name on it anywhere.
Turning a 4" piece of 1-1/8" hot roll to 1" with a .073 x 5/8" dia stub on one end.
OAL will be about 1.5" when parted so I hope to get 2 parts out of this piece.
Each will weld into the hole on the flat parts to make a pivot arm for a lift rod on a Cub Cadet 3 point lift ass'y.
Not real excited about the finish on it though, I must be doing something wrong.

DSCN8017.JPG
 
This is with the 9A I just finished and started to se what I could do with it.
The chuck is a 5" no name $25 used cheapo (and probably abused as well)
Could find no name on it anywhere.
Turning a 4" piece of 1-1/8" hot roll to 1" with a .073 x 5/8" dia stub on one end.
OAL will be about 1.5" when parted so I hope to get 2 parts out of this piece.
Each will weld into the hole on the flat parts to make a pivot arm for a lift rod on a Cub Cadet 3 point lift ass'y.
Not real excited about the finish on it though, I must be doing something wrong.

View attachment 334292

Yes, you want a 4 jaw, $50 if it fits your machine is a deal. You will get better with finish as you gain experience, for now make your parts oversize and use a file & emery paper to make it as nice as you want.

John
 
+1 on the 4-jaw. After a quick change toolpost, a 4-jaw was the next major tooling purchase. I have a 10" South Bend and bought a 6" chuck.
Took me a while to learn to dial in parts but now I'm pretty quick. It pretty much lives on my lathe.
 
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