Belts... and why nobody changes them. :/

Hi, new to site and am computer stupid.
Hi, I just bought a Husky PC36 that was purchased from Surrey Busy Bee 1980. it has a headstock that look very much like your lathe has. I have not been able to find a manual for it and will have to replace the spindle seals. Where did you get your seals? Also will read your thread and would appreciate any suggestions/pointers.
Thanks
mabmach
 
Since you're local....

Try Wriason seal (they're in Vancouver), or Lordco. Just take your old seals with you. They're standard replacements.
 
The last shop I worked in, many years ago, had link belts on almost everything. Machines needed to be running !!
 
Dr.Fiero How did you manage to get that $##%$% spindle out? I have to replace all the seals on my '81 DF1237G, and well, I just don't get it. Neither did the millwright who confusedly told me "I've never worked on anything like that". Needless to say, I did not hire his services.
 
I know this is an old thread, but this is exactly what I needed to see to replace my seals in the 1237g.

Thank you and this should be stickied to the top!
 
Dr.Fiero said:
Aha! Success. Just needed a fresh day, a parts list... and a brass hammer. :D

Started like this:
View attachment 48750

All this and more "fell out" (ha! yeah right). This is only the main spindle:
View attachment 48751

Which left me with:
View attachment 48752View attachment 48753View attachment 48754


So - since this stuff isn't mentioned anywhere else on the web (that I could find after a few days!), hopefully Google will crawl it and find:
Motor to pulley belt: B31
Pulley to spindle belt: B32
Left outer oil seal: 65*85*12mm
Left inner oil seal: 55*75*12mm
Right inner oil seal: 60*80*10mm
Right outer oil seal: 80*100*12mm

I'll update this with the bearing numbers if I remember to look.

The drawing/parts list is wrong, and vague.
There's no numbers listed in it other than a reference, and they show the left side using one # for inner and outer, and the same on the right! <-- wrong.

One trick if anyone else needs to do this... there's a hole in the right side of the headstock casting that is plugged, then painted over! This little hole is critical, as it allows you take out the shaft that supports the rear pulley assembly (after removing the set screw that's hidden, pointing straight up). There's no way to remove the pulley shaft with the assembly installed (it's too long). Just guesstimate where the hole would be and tap it with a punch. Falls right in.

Time to grab some kerosene and start cleaning! FYI - methyl hydrate is WAY too wimpy. The grease just laughed at it as it ran away.

View attachment 48750 View attachment 48751 View attachment 48752 View attachment 48753
Click to expand...
I believe I would consider converting that to a chain drive.....



 
And the question I have in my mind is...how the heck do you keep the gear train in that headstock oiled without covering the belt in oil? Belts don't like oil, both because of the loss of needed friction and because it tends to break down the rubber.

Rick "enough of a problem on the 2" flat belt on my South Bend" Denney
 
rwdenney said:
And the question I have in my mind is...how the heck do you keep the gear train in that headstock oiled without covering the belt in oil? Belts don't like oil, both because of the loss of needed friction and because it tends to break down the rubber.

Rick "enough of a problem on the 2" flat belt on my South Bend" Denney
Click to expand...
It’s not possible! My jet is the same setup and I’m careful about oiling the pulleys when using the back gear. The oil that weeps out of the bearings doesn’t line up with the belt. Other than that, it slips rather than breaks if there’s unexpected friction!
 
Time to resurrect this thread indeed! I have discovered the secret of replacing the seals and taking apart the headstock.

First a story: My friend bought a 12X37 in parts (!) Clearly it was very cheap, as one of the parts was broken beyond repair. In trying to coach him on reassembly, including taking photos, and also his very insightful commentary, it dawned on me the correct order for disassembly or reassembly. I'm sure it occurred to him first, and he was generously letting it dawn on me also!

Now for the facts: (I'll take photos when I get around to it, but not before summer).

After removing the covers at both ends, and removing the tensioning nuts, the TS won't move, a bit. There are 2 things holding it back:
1) a set screw in the middle of the spindle that jams onto a keyway. This is what I missed, as it has to be pointing up to see it!!! Second, and more insidious, is that the bearing farthest away from the tailstock is a light press fit. It takes force on the jam nut to press the bearing in. Not tons, but in the order of perhaps a hundred pounds. So a bearing pusher has to be made that presses the spindle out, and holds against the nearest wall of the headstock. don't transmit the force all the way through the spindle as the pressure on the casting may crack the very thin headstock casting.

I really hope this helps. Very Soon Now, I'll be replacing the seals on my lathe, and I'll try to take lots of photos and post them here...
 
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