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Bridgeport Resto

N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#1
After purchasing my new milling machine through an online auction I went and picked up yesterday
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Rented a tilting flat bed trailer from the local tool rental store for cheap cheap cheap. the tilting option was amazing for unloading since I have nothing heavy duty enough to pick it up but we were able to slide it off the trailer and onto some pipe and wheeled it into the garage :)
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It needs a little work before its ready for work...but once done I am sure it will provide many years of service for me.
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brino

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#3
Hi N8,

First, welcome to the site.
Second, congratulations on the new hardware! :encourage:

There are many knowledgeable Bridgeport owners here, you've found a great place for Q&A and camaraderie.

-brino
 

N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#4
Thanks @brino and @JimDawson for the replies and warm welcomes. snooping around on this site for a bit now and I know there are a lot of knowledgeable people on here with wisdom and experience to share :) that's why i signed up!!

Couple questions to get me started....
1. mill did not come with a motor which is ok but i wish that is did even if it was in need of a rebuild...but that's besides the point. question is who has had good luck with substitutes? I plan on keeping it 3ph and it will be set up for VFD. even though this is a variable speed head originally. any one recommend a particular motor or even conversion to VFD if its out there for this.

2. To fully dismantle or not ... I am going to be cleaning it up A LOT and repainting but I am hesitant to take everything apart. should I clean it the best that I can AS IS and make it look pretty and operational or completely dissemble and clean and inspect all parts? what is the generally consensus? problem is I am very ... well ... lets just say anal, and I know that if I fully dissemble it will be out of commission until I know everything is better then when it came out of the factory which I know will add to the cost and significantly lengthen it rebuild time.

Thanks for any and all input!!!
 

JimDawson

Global Moderator
Staff member
Director
#5
It's really too bad that you didn't get it with the motor. The real problem is that there is a lot more hardware needed on the motor end for the vari-drive. You can get an import motor/vari-drive pulley assembly from Jet complete for about $950. It may not be a direct bolt on, but should be adaptable. I have no idea what a true BP motor assembly would cost. The motor is a special and has a long shaft for the vari-drive pulley assembly.

Another option might be to install a timing belt drive and eliminate the entire vari-drive system. That's what I'm going to do if my vari-drive fails. The VFD has enough range to cover the speeds needed. If I were going to do that, then a sensorless vector drive and an inverter rated motor would be in order. A 2 KW AC servo drive spindle system would be the top of the line.

If the machine is in generally good shape and has been properly lubricated then I would not do a complete tear down. Just clean things up a bit. You won't know about the condition of the head and spindle before you are able to power it up.
 

alloy

Always looking for the next tool score
H-M Supporter-Premium
#6
I just did a quick search on eBay and found 3 vari speed motors with the pulleys for around $400. And new for about $1000. I'd post links but I can't do that on my phone.

Just search for Bridgeport Motor.

Wish I could find one for my Kent mill for that price.
 

N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#7
Thanks for the replies.
I do plan on running a VFD so I will need a motor that is inverter rated. I may be wrong but I don't believe stock motors will handle that.

So I will be disengaging the factory variable drive pulleys and running my own setup instead to work with new motor.
does anyone offer a pulley setup for this conversion? and what motor brand/size/mounting have people had good experience with?
 

JimDawson

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Staff member
Director
#8
You could run the stock motor on a VFD, but you won't have the speed/torque range that you would get with an inverter rated motor and a sensorless vector drive. There are two types of VFD, most are V/Hz type, the other type is sensorless vector. The latter is more expensive, but offer greater torque over a wider range.

I can't help with exactly what pulley arrangement to use.
 

countryguy

Active User
Active Member
#9
As an example, the Hitachi WJ300 is a sensorless vector VFD. Cost me under $350 if I recall. There is a WJ200 also. I bought mine w/ a remote min-keypad. then you can mount it all, wire it, and have a keypad w a flip up lid or panel etc... On the low end, The ebay Hunyang's VFD for a 1 or 2 hP are something like 80-$100. If it were my Mill, I would go w/ a Sensorless Vector style on the mill. If it were a small grinder or something- then I would go low end VFD.

I also have a Varispeed Mill setup w/ a VFD on CNC. It does make a challange for setting the RPMs via software. If you find a keen way to get this setup for the drive train I'm all ears!!

Welcome and post away- I know I have and they are awesome here!!!!

On the clean out/up- Does it have a one-shot oil system? Aluminum or plastic tubing? Mine was all plugged w/ goo. Had to remobe them all. Soak and blow out w/ compressed air! To me- Making sure I get oil in key places was an area we spend time upon.

the table will have the usual adjustments. I likes this one as a Newb.

Electrical connections and disconnects. On my hobby mill w/ VFD I found wire post after wire terminal loose and barely screwed down. Check it over there.

When my mini mill blew up after 1 week I determined someone had put the lollipop disconnect across 1 leg of the 220 into the VFD in order to turn the VFD based machine on/off. Total no-no That is what blew up the cheap VFD . So I installed the WJ300 w/ the correct make/break setups to power that mill on/off.

Jim D. turned my onto Automation Direct. LOVE those guys! They also have a student discount typically! find a way there if you can. a .edu email if I recall.

there are a lot of motors out there. I learned a ton about them from sites. I liked this article.
http://ecmweb.com/design/mating-new-variable-frequency-drives-existing-motors

There is also a large motor reuse/New Old Stock up in Lansing or Saginaw if I recall. Lots of good deals there. I'll see if I can fine the URL.

btw/ I grew up in Westland. Venoy and Warran rds. long time ago!
 

alloy

Always looking for the next tool score
H-M Supporter-Premium
#11
If I have enough $$ in my pocket to win the bid on it yes you will have that drive in your hands :) The Super E motor on that head is abut $900.

I was doing a little research on the electronic head and found this. Not much, but it shows the timing drive setup.

TW-GL-head-parts.gif
 

N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#12
Thanks @countryguy for sharing that video! btw the machine does have a one shot oil system however the oiler has been removed but all of the plumbing remains and its plastic. I will definitely take that all apart and clean it out and maybe replace it with some nicely bent hardlines ....cause well I like the look of that :)
what are you using for oil? way oil, motor oil or something else?
small world you from westland I am not to far away from where you lived. Wayne and Cherry Hill

@JimDawson if you could post some pics of the timing belt drive that would be awesome! thank you!

Thanks @alloy for posting up the diagram :)
 

N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#13
I started the process of de-greasing and cleaning, still needs quite a bit more but definitely steps in the right direction. just from cleaning and not measuring the ways seem to look good and looks like it was well oiled in its life. I am going to pull the table this weekend to clean and inspect.
Ill grab some new pics of the progress
 

alloy

Always looking for the next tool score
H-M Supporter-Premium
#14
The head with the timing belt setup is at an auction on Saturday. I bought a Kent mill and the motor shaft is completely destroyed and Jim found the head at an auction site. There are a few other things that we are interested in also. We will post our "scores" on here :)

I'm looking to put the head on my Kent mill. It's an electronic head, 3hp with a Baldor Super E motor. I'm going to do my best to get it. Willing to throw some bucks at it, but hopefully won't have too. Jim said I'm up against scrappers and I should easily outbid them for it. We should be able to gt it to Jim's on Saturday and take some pics of it. Hopefully we can power it up also from the big VFD on my CNC mill.

For your lube lines I used 1/8" copper tubing and ferrules I got at an auto parts store to repair the ones on my Bridgeport.
 

alloy

Always looking for the next tool score
H-M Supporter-Premium
#16
Jim and I just went to preview the auction and he looked inside the head and it has a V belt setup in it.

I'm pretty sure I'll end up owning it. If you want we can post pics of the belt setup.
 

N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#17
Jim and I just went to preview the auction and he looked inside the head and it has a V belt setup in it.

I'm pretty sure I'll end up owning it. If you want we can post pics of the belt setup.
If you would please that would be awesome. thank you!
 

alloy

Always looking for the next tool score
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#18
I got the head for $200. Was pretty late when we got out of the auction, so I'll go out to Jim's tomorrow and put some power to it and get you some pics.
 

N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#19
I got the head for $200. Was pretty late when we got out of the auction, so I'll go out to Jim's tomorrow and put some power to it and get you some pics.
That will be awesome, thanks!
I pulled the top of the head off yesterday day to take some measurements and see what I am working with to timing belt pulley sizes and locations.

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N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#20
Still cleaning but its definitely getting there :)
the automatic feed for the spindle may need some work seems to be very tough to engage/disengage and feels a little tough using the handle to drop the quill, maybe its just the old sticky oil but seems to be tougher then should be to move all that.

I also haven't removed the table yet, am I supposed to remove the gib or just loosen it before sliding the table off? I have read it being done both ways?
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Last edited:

JimDawson

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Director
#21
I also haven't removed the table yet, am I supposed to remove the gib or just loosen it before sliding the table off? I have read it being done both ways?
You might want to remove it. If you don't, it will just fall out when the table comes off and it could be damaged. Only takes a couple of minutes to pull it out.
 

alloy

Always looking for the next tool score
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#22
Looks like your having the same problem with pics that I have. The show up rotated. The only way I've found to fix that is to open them, rotate them 90 deg, save it, and then rotate back and save again. Then I can upload them.

It works, not sure why I have to do that though.
 

N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#24
Looks like your having the same problem with pics that I have. The show up rotated. The only way I've found to fix that is to open them, rotate them 90 deg, save it, and then rotate back and save again. Then I can upload them.

It works, not sure why I have to do that though.
Yea I don't know why it was doing that, I rotated like you said and it seemed to work now so I was able to fix the images.
 

alloy

Always looking for the next tool score
H-M Supporter-Premium
#25
Here are a couple of pics of the belt drive. We decided to tear the head completely apart. The head was full of grease and every time we moved it water poured out of it.

If you need more pics Jim can get them for you. It was late last night when we got it apart and I had to head home. I get up pretty early for work.


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N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#26
Thanks for sharing @alloy, I had something similar pictured in my head.
is there any kind of belt tensioner?
Interest the head was full of water :confused: thats a little strange. ha maybe it was water cooled lol
 

alloy

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#27
No tensioner, just the slotted base on the motor. Uses an AX31 belt.

Then head was under a canopy at the auction when we saw it, but it must have been out somewhere before that. Guess it needed cooling off because it was such a hot deal for me :)
 

N8TheGreat

Active Member
Active Member
#28
Got the table off the mill last night, pretty easy to do however I knew it was going to be heavy but it was even heavier then I thought it would be. I removed the gib and slid the table onto some milk crates and 6x6s that were at the same height, that wasn't too bad but then I flipped it over and that's when I found out just how heavy that sucker was lol.
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alloy

Always looking for the next tool score
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#29
You might want to take a look at the casting around the Y axis table lock on the saddle. It's pretty thin there. On mine there were several cracks where someone over tightened it. I thought about trying to get it welded, but came up with a repair that didn't require any welding.
 

4gsr

Global Moderator
Staff member
H-M Supporter-Premium
#30
Your table ways look good, but the saddle ways are heavily worn. Looks likes some scraping work ahead of you there.

BTW-Can't help but notice the lawn mower in the back ground in your picture. You mow your yard with that?