- Joined
- Sep 26, 2013
- Messages
- 408
Finally started to paint my 8530 after having it sit in parts for more than a few months. I'm not going nuts on the paint, lots of dings and scrapes were left in the original paint(which is not removed) my goal is only to have a nice looking mill, not a full restoration with perfect paint. I've painted more than a few machines(metal and wood) using roller, brush and rustoleum with pretty good results, thought I'd share my method.
I degrease the parts using thinner in a spray bottle and scotchbrite pads, then sand with 120 and wipe down with acetone. Using rattle can primer on this one as I had a couple of cans from other projects, three light coats. Let dry a few days and then thin the paint(rustoleoum smoke gray) about 5-10% thinner, first very light(no possibility of runs) coat is rolled on(6" long "weenie" 1/4" nap roller) and let "flash" dry for only a few minutes, second light coat rolled on a a section at a time and brushed out before I go on to the next section to smooth the roller nap marks, pics here are the results of those steps. I'll let that dry for a few days, lightly sand with 320, and repeat the very light/light roller method and that should do it for what my goal is. I remove the masking right after painting, this prevents the masking from lifting off any paint as it sometimes done if the paint is dry, takes so little time to remask its worth to me. The paint then cures for around a month before assembling, hard not to rush this step but less likely to ding it badly when reassembling.
All painting is done outside as any oil based paint fumes are nasty, lucky that I live in socal where this is possible year round. I'll post a few pics as I move through the job. Almost forgot, I don't worry about paint getting in the threaded holes as I have plenty of taps to chase the threads, makes it nice to reassemble with clean threads.
Hopes this helps a few out, it really isn't hard to get a decent durable finish this way using multiple light coats.
Brian
I degrease the parts using thinner in a spray bottle and scotchbrite pads, then sand with 120 and wipe down with acetone. Using rattle can primer on this one as I had a couple of cans from other projects, three light coats. Let dry a few days and then thin the paint(rustoleoum smoke gray) about 5-10% thinner, first very light(no possibility of runs) coat is rolled on(6" long "weenie" 1/4" nap roller) and let "flash" dry for only a few minutes, second light coat rolled on a a section at a time and brushed out before I go on to the next section to smooth the roller nap marks, pics here are the results of those steps. I'll let that dry for a few days, lightly sand with 320, and repeat the very light/light roller method and that should do it for what my goal is. I remove the masking right after painting, this prevents the masking from lifting off any paint as it sometimes done if the paint is dry, takes so little time to remask its worth to me. The paint then cures for around a month before assembling, hard not to rush this step but less likely to ding it badly when reassembling.
All painting is done outside as any oil based paint fumes are nasty, lucky that I live in socal where this is possible year round. I'll post a few pics as I move through the job. Almost forgot, I don't worry about paint getting in the threaded holes as I have plenty of taps to chase the threads, makes it nice to reassemble with clean threads.
Hopes this helps a few out, it really isn't hard to get a decent durable finish this way using multiple light coats.
Brian
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