Drilling 316 Stainless Question - Small Hole - Tiny Bit!!!! = Breaking

I was just looking at Travers sale flyer for this month, they have some Viking Drills type 260-UB that might fit the bill, not Metric but maybe they have them, they say these bits have thin web for quick penetration of 300 series stainless. price is not bad in package quantity. Page 5 of the July sale flyer, might give them a call and see if they metric sizes, sounds like the ticket to me.

michael
 
slow and steady constant pressure and coolant.
I use diesel fuel for coolant (does not take much) .
 
the.hogman said:
Long story short, the press will be heading to the metal scrap bin later.
Click to expand...

It might still be useful as parts.......
I've been looking for an old drill press (and the time and space...) to flip the head, mount in a box and rig a slow cam to drive the quill to use as an oscillating spindle sander for wood-working.
Sure the bearings are not made for side pressures, but if it's already euchred, why not? It's almost free!

-brino
 
Hey that Travers tip might be good! I see you can call for numbers and letter sizes. I could pilot with a #57 I just have to be a hair over .045 when its done to fit the pin through. I'll check it out.


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On my cell so short post. Troubles continue even with Dumore and 135 split cobalt so I clearly don't know what the H I am doing!!! I'll take pic of jig so you can see why even a drill bushing won't seem to be possible. Issue? Melting bits! Obviously not right on fluid. More later. Thanks all!

BTW - I have quite an inexpensive drip fluid setup that I will send pics of. I think I have about $10 in the whole thing... Another thread on that.
 
I'm still going to go with too much spindle speed and not enough cutting pressure. Try it dry and see what happens. Maybe consider changing to 303 or 304 SS, much less likely to work harden.
 
I wish I could change from 316 SS. Can't, given the end product unfortunately. I did grab a bit, a little 304 and gave it heck dry on the Dumore. It cut like butter. Difference between 304 and 316. I didn't get a chance to do the 316 in same manner. Will be doing that tonight. More later.


Sent from my iPhone
 
Carbide will handle work hardening issues. Go slow and have patience. Carbide will break if you look at it wrong but I have successfully drilled smaller holes in 316 SS and hardened steel.
Watch the cutting edges for dulling or chipping. A dull or chipped carbide drill will break.

Near zero runout and controlled feed are a must. A sensitive drill chuck like brino has suggested will help to control feed issues.

Bob
 
OK, here is the final result. I ended up switching to 303 SS and changed up the polishing method. I was able to complete several pieces from the 316 SS, but it was tedious and difficult. Absolutely not worth it. I have been ripping through the 303 like butter. Anything I bought in trying to figure this issue out was well worth the money! I have sure learned a lot. I can now resharpen and hone tiny drill bits with ease. So well that they cut better than original!

BTW, the only way I was able to drill the 316 SS was to use about 1600 RPM in the drill press with all adjustments tight as can be (see above post about the drill press). Used a lot of cutting oil and pecked drilled trying to feel the cut. I could do about 4-5 holes then have to resharpen the bit.

Thanks to all who listened to my woes!
 
the.hogman said:
I can now resharpen and hone tiny drill bits with ease. So well that they cut better than original!
Click to expand...

That's a great skill to have!
Was that HSS or carbide? Any pointers are sharpening techniques?

Thanks for updating us on your progress and solution.

-brino
 
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