Easy Soft-Jaws

Tony Wells

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I've often touted soft jaws for the lathe as a simple way to get around a chuck that perhaps isn't quite up to holding a part for secondary operations, or smooth round bar accurately. I had a need for some the other day and remembered to take a few pictures of an easy way to do a set. I'll try to get them in order.

The part and some drops from an old job:
IMG_5978_zpsfbbf0581.jpg

IMG_5980_zps95d42ceb.jpg

Drilled thru and counterbored to fit the socket cap screws that normally hold the top jaws on.
IMG_5984_zpsa94f26bd.jpg

Roughly the idea while laying on the surface plate.
IMG_5985_zps9604e196.jpg

Setting up to bore them to size and true them up. Note the 1/2" drive socket in the master jaws. This is to give the chuck something to tighten against for boring the soft jaws. You have to use something of the diameter that will allow you to bore the jaws to size and get as much contact area for the part to be machined as you want. In this case, I didn't want/need much area. You could work it so they would be like pie-jaws, but you would have to do something different that round stock as I show here. Like I said.. easy Soft-Jaws.
IMG_5988_zps102dd5b0.jpg


Boring in progress.
IMG_5992_zpsd6609a79.jpg

Bored and ready
IMG_5993_zpsbe08a5d4.jpg

With part to be machined
IMG_5994_zpsb8efb5a6.jpg

IMG_5995_zps3027a533.jpg

Finished part in chuck
IMG_5997_zps58a69523.jpg


All this took about half an hour, including machining the part. TIR was near zero when finished. And of course, there's no way to get them back on the chuck exactly in the same position, but they can be rotated to a new position and bored there, or lightly chucking a part, snugged into place and skimmed. Or turned 90 or 180° and started from scratch. You can leave a shoulder instead of boring through as I did here if you need repeatable length chucking. I had to grab the inside of a spool shaped part, to I had to make sure they were short enough, and bored through. Uses only limited by imagination. I always get many uses out of the ones I make.
 
Great tip! I'm a bit surprised that the aluminum "cylinders" don't turn a bit when being hit by the boring bar. Are they "really cranked down", do you use some other method to keep them from rotating, or is it just not an issue?

Thanks much,

-Ron
 
They are just faced flat on the back, but I'll admit that the soc cap screws, which are 12mm (I think), are pretty tight. I use a short arm hex key and a dead-blow mallet to knock them fairly tight. Being aluminum, even the smooth, ground surface of the "key" section of the master jaw bites in a bit. Never had one try to spin while boring them. But then, I don't get rough with them while boring. I don't want to mill a keyway to lock them onto the master jaws, since that would limit the use to only 2 positions, or 4 if I milled a crossing slot also. So, it's not an issue.
 
I've often touted soft jaws for the lathe as a simple way to get around a chuck that perhaps isn't quite up to holding a part for secondary operations, or smooth round bar accurately. I had a need for some the other day and remembered to take a few pictures of an easy way to do a set. I'll try to get them in order.

The part and some drops from an old job:
IMG_5978_zpsfbbf0581.jpg

IMG_5980_zps95d42ceb.jpg

Drilled thru and counterbored to fit the socket cap screws that normally hold the top jaws on.
IMG_5984_zpsa94f26bd.jpg

Roughly the idea while laying on the surface plate.
IMG_5985_zps9604e196.jpg

Setting up to bore them to size and true them up. Note the 1/2" drive socket in the master jaws. This is to give the chuck something to tighten against for boring the soft jaws. You have to use something of the diameter that will allow you to bore the jaws to size and get as much contact area for the part to be machined as you want. In this case, I didn't want/need much area. You could work it so they would be like pie-jaws, but you would have to do something different that round stock as I show here. Like I said.. easy Soft-Jaws.
IMG_5988_zps102dd5b0.jpg


Boring in progress.
IMG_5992_zpsd6609a79.jpg

Bored and ready
IMG_5993_zpsbe08a5d4.jpg

With part to be machined
IMG_5994_zpsb8efb5a6.jpg

IMG_5995_zps3027a533.jpg

Finished part in chuck
IMG_5997_zps58a69523.jpg


All this took about half an hour, including machining the part. TIR was near zero when finished. And of course, there's no way to get them back on the chuck exactly in the same position, but they can be rotated to a new position and bored there, or lightly chucking a part, snugged into place and skimmed. Or turned 90 or 180° and started from scratch. You can leave a shoulder instead of boring through as I did here if you need repeatable length chucking. I had to grab the inside of a spool shaped part, to I had to make sure they were short enough, and bored through. Uses only limited by imagination. I always get many uses out of the ones I make.

Great idea. Thanks
 
Glad you guys enjoyed it. These are, of course, aluminum. You can do these out of most any material you need. I like aluminum because it seems to grip well even with a small contact patch, and naturally, is easy to machine itself. And in this case, it was free. These were just some nubs left from machining some longer parts. I needed something to chuck on and machine complete and part off, so this was left over.

I don't recall right off top of my head, but there is a company who makes a jaw system that allows for quick change jaw inserts that are designed to start basically as cylindrical blanks and you have to machine them as needed. I have a sample master top jaw for the system around here someplace. I'll dig it up and give the make at least, and show a picture. It's something that can be shop made, and it is actually pretty repeatable, so you can have jaws made for certain jobs/parts and just insert them into the top jaw and lock them in place with a set screw. It's a pretty slick system, although pretty pricey if I recall. I made a bunch of aluminum inserts for a set at a place I worked while I was getting my own shop rolling. They could have bought them, either steel (1018 or 1020), but wanted me to make some from aluminum. I still have the master top jaw that I used to get all the needed dimensions. I guess I am so used to using soft jaws for most everything like this that I don't need a collet machine too much. Not that I do that much small work anyway, but this saves me lots of headaches.

I'll have to get used to collets on my project WatchLathe though.
 
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