Facing Both Sides Of Short Work?

[seasicksteve]

I just face the first side. Then,I take 2 parallels of appropriate height,and hold them against the chuck face while pressing the side of the metal(the already faced side) against the parallels. I then tighten the chuck jaws enough to hold the work,tap the work snugly against the parallels with a dead blow hammer,and withdraw the parallels. Then,finish tightening the chuck jaws.

This only works with chucks in GOOD CONDITION. If your chuck has sprung jaws,or has sloppy fitting jaws,the workpiece can move out of place when you do the final jaw tightening.

The device just above is a good idea,better than using parallels (using parallels requires skill). If you can't use the parallels,it would be a good idea to make yourself such an outfit.

This method works very well. I will add just a note of caution. As always when working on a machine take your time and pay attention. I was doing some parts using the exact method outlined above when SWMBO came to the door just after I had set the part up in the chuck. I was distracted from my task long enough to forget to remove the parallels. I spooled up the lathe and all hell broke loose. Luckily I was not injured It did put a nice dent in the backsplash and took out 2 8' florescent tubes which made quite a mess to clean up. A scary episode for sure

 

[george wilson]

YES!!!!!! DO remove the parallels before turning the lathe on!!!!

Reminds me of the time this guy took the knives of his jointer loose. Answered the phone. Came back and idly switched the jointer on!!!! Ruined his jointer table inserts. Knives and gibs flew everywhere!! Being a Makita,this jointer had removable slotted table inserts next to the blades. I don't know why they had this feature. . Then,he wrote a letter to Fine Woodworking magazine,complaining about the lack of parts service from Makita. He got no sympathy at all . He should not have mentioned how he left the machine plugged in while working on the knives.

 

[jocat54]

I just face the first side. Then,I take 2 parallels of appropriate height,and hold them against the chuck face while pressing the side of the metal(the already faced side) against the parallels. I then tighten the chuck jaws enough to hold the work,tap the work snugly against the parallels with a dead blow hammer,and withdraw the parallels. Then,finish tightening the chuck jaws.

This only works with chucks in GOOD CONDITION. If your chuck has sprung jaws,or has sloppy fitting jaws,the workpiece can move out of place when you do the final jaw tightening.

The device just above is a good idea,better than using parallels (using parallels requires skill). If you can't use the parallels,it would be a good idea to make yourself such an outfit.

I do as George Described and it works great.

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

If you do not have a through spindle stop make one, it will be one of the most useful things that you will ever make for a lathe without question.

Build a device that attaches to the outboard end of the spindle, drill a suitably sized hole through the center for an adjustable rod, install some setscrew holes to hold the rod in position, this may be aluminum or steel. Make the rod with a thread on one end to hold attachments for different jobs, choose a thread smaller then the rod and thread to a shoulder as this will keep the attachments square to the rod. Also make a close fitting round support and lock it with a setscrew as close to the chuck end of the spindle bore as possible, this will keep the stop centered.

Turn and face an attachment just slightly smaller then the jaws when clamped on the part, place the already faced end against the stop and chuck up, it will remain square to the face of the stop.

You will use a spindle stop for thousands of jobs and once used you will find it difficult to comprehend how you did without it.

Also all parts may be made in a lathe with the exception of the transverse set screws, however I know squat about your lathe so making the a rod holder for the end of the spindle may prove a challenge, most modern lathes have an extended portion of the spindle for just this purpose. I once owned a Clausing 13 X 48 lathe from the 50's that had 3 tapped holes on the spindle end thus making it easy.

 

[george wilson]

The spindle stop as drawn would only serve to square up small diameter work. And,it could not get between the jaws if they were required to close smaller than the spindle stop. So,it has limitations. But is useful for many other jobs. I have a job in hand where I have to face both sides of 6" diameter stock about 1 1/2" long.

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

The spindle stop as drawn would only serve to square up small diameter work. And,it could not get between the jaws if they were required to close smaller than the spindle stop. So,it has limitations. But is useful for many other jobs. I have a job in hand where I have to face both sides of 6" diameter stock about 1 1/2" long.

Not true, one may make an end attachment of any diameter which can be installed on the chuck side of the spindle before the part is chucked. If as you say you are facing 6" diameter rounds just invert the top jaws or install the OD jaws and you have a pocket, this will make facing a breeze.

 

[kwoodhands]

Since parting is a problem I would face one end first, then hacksaw off a bit long. Repeat til you have enough stock for the nuts. Now re-chuck with the unfaced side out. To align the small piece I install a scrap of CRS in a tool holder that has been faced and slightly beveled. The advance the compound til the CRS touches the nut, advance slowly til the nut runs without wobble. Now face to dimension ,bore and tap. The nut when removed may have a slight burr where the drill and tap exits, A couple of swipes on a coarse stone or sand paper block takes care of this.
mike

 

[george wilson]

Wreck,I did say "As drawn".

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

Wreck,I did say "As drawn".

Well put

 

[george wilson]

I WILL have to invert the jaws,as I'm using an 8" Bison chuck(4 jaw universal). My back is really out right now,and I don't intend to wrestle a 12" chuck onto the lathe! The 8" had better do it!!! So,I will have the benefit of having a step to rest the work against. I do have a heavily built roll about cart for holding chucks,with a Sky Hook on it. But,I haven't gotten around to putting the chucks onto it,or making the places to hold the chucks.

On our large lathe at work,I made a similar chuck cart,with a Sky Hook on it(lifting capacity is 500#). I would mount the light weight shy hook onto the carriage. I mounted it via the Aloris tool post. Then,I could get the cart close enough to the lathe to swing the Sky Hook out and pick up a chuck. All the chucks and face plate had a threaded hole in them for a hook to be screwed into them for picking up. Mounted on the carriage,it was simple to move the carriage about till the chuck would easily slide into the D8 spindle. This worked great. Jon and I were both getting too old to try picking up a 16" 4 jaw chuck. And,the lathe was so large,you had to hold that chuck at arm's length to reach the spindle!! Something HAD to be done.

Sky Hooks aren't cheap. I was lucky to find a brand new one for $150.00. Sky Hook also makes a flimsy looking cart to mount the Sky Hook on. Looks like it would flip over easily!! Really expensive!! The ones we made were MUCH better. And heavy enough to not flip over when a heavy chuck was on the end of the boom.