Frozen cone pulley on logan 200

N

ntomsheck

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I tried to engage the back gears on my logan yesterday, and found the cone pulley is completely frozen. I removed the set screws and filled it up with PB blaster and let it sit. I got it to budge maybe 1/16 of a rotation, but not any more.

To hold the pulley still, I stuck a steel shank into one of the oil holes and used leverage against the side of the headstock. I also tried a pipe wrench on the gear of the cone pulley. That did exactly what you think it did. :angry: The shank worked the best, but eventually bent and snapped. No damage to the set screw threads.

Does anyone have any tricks for holding the pulley still while trying to turn the spindle? If not, I'm thinking I can remove the chuck, unscrew the bearing cap, then use a slide hammer to try to pull the spindle out. Once the pulley is off, I can replace the bushings (or the whole pulley) and clean up the spindle easily.
 
You might try a strap wrench.:dunno:
 
Make sure there is not a second set screw under the first! Been there done that, wrecked the counter shaft cone pulley on my Logan trying to remove it, before I discovered the second set screw under the first.
 
Well from what I understand, this pulley is supposed to rotate freely once the bull gear is disengaged. There is a set screw which holds the pulley to the pinion, but the pinion needs to move as well, so this doesn't help. I did look down into the bore and can see what I assume is the spindle, so it doesn't look like anything else is holding it.

I'll certainly try a strap wrench!
 
Hey;

Indeed, do make sure the set screw holes are clear of any screws hiding there. VERY common to see this, and there is nothing to say that anyone in the past did not put it together wrong, eh? The later 200s (43>) had an oillite bushing in the cone pinion gear, which should not stick as bad I would not think. Early ones did not. Cast cone on steel spindle. It is pressed in pretty tight either way, but also has the set screw.

I'm currently trying to free up the spindle on an old micrometer. Stuck solid. Last week I repaired a Chevy van with frozen hinges on the right side cargo door. Same principle at work here. Either gunk or fretting corrosion has that thing frozen. #1 ingredient - Patience. #2 ingredient, LOTS of light lube of some sort, be it Blaster or WD40. Kersonene works very well also. Load that baby up and hope some gets out there. #3 - some way to lock the spindle and move the cone pulley back and forth. It won't move much to start, but the back and forth movement begins to break up that gunk/corrosion in there and turn it to powder or goo. Back and forth endlessly all while flooding it with the lube until you break up and wash out all the sediment.

Here's a thought. It is crucial to get your lube to where it is stuck. Rig up a deal like a pressure bleeder for brakes. Some sort of fitting that will seal into the set screw hole (vacuum bleeder kits have those little plastic needle ends), then a hose to a bottle or funnel propped high above. The force of gravity should help to push lube out to the bad spot.
 
I have the same problem on my Logan 200.The cone pulley won't turn, causing it to lock up in back gear. I plan on pulling the spindle again to see what's going on.I removed the set screw, and can see the shaft, so there is only one set screw.
Just a note about the bushings. I got mine from Motion Industries.
Rick W
 
Well, I got it off, though I'm sure my lathe now hates me. Trying to get it to turn while still in the headstock was turning out to be Sisyphean.

Tried to remove the chuck, stuck chuck. My impact wrench wasn't doing it, so I ran to harbor freight and bought one of their 1" two-hand impact wrenches. Zipped it right off. At the risk of sounding like an HF shill, that thing is a total beast. It was the mid-grade (~$150)

Went to remove the rear collar, stuck collar. Easy enough, drill and split, then spread and loosen.

Everything else was pretty standard - gear, Woodruff key, spacer, bull-gear set screw, retainer screws. Then I had to hammer on the back of the spindle for a good 20 minutes. I used a brass hammer and put the collar back on, but it still marred up the rear of the spindle. It did break loose, and everything came out.

What is a precise way way to check if the spindle is true? I rolled it on an I-beam for a quick spot check, but is there a more precise way? Is there a threat my 2lb brass hammer bent the spindle? I understand these machines aren't as accurate as others, but no reason to make it worse haha.
 
Scott Logan of http://loganact.com/ continues to support his family's product in fine style should you need anything special. He used to be a regular on rec.crafts.metalworking but haven't heard fromhim in quite a while. I'm told there is a logan group on yahoo that he visits.

Karl
 
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