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[How do I?] Full Resto/rebuild Of A Leblond No.2 Cutter Grinder

Matthew Nelson

Registered Member
I've just started a new project (famous last words...). I was able to get a LeBlond No. 2 Cutter Grinder for a VERY good price. I'll give you the good-news/ bad-news:

- Very little rust
- Everything moves smoothly and easily
- Almost no run-out, and very little play in the Y and Z axis
- 3-4 layers of paint on most of the machine (and it was painted as a whole piece)
- Because of the excess paint, I'm having a hard time disassembling everything
- The X axis got stuck after I started removing parts

I have a few questions for the community:
- Have any of you restored one of these? I can't find much info about them on the web.
- I've never liked "Tool Room Grey" and since I'm not planning selling this guy when I'm done, I'm thinking about doing it in navy blue (with white accents for the lettering and some of the other bits). I'm planning on using engine enamel from a spray paint can. What brands have y'all tried? Is there a great one to use, and others to avoid?
- It didn't come with any accessories. It there a good place (other than eBay) to find the various attachment for this machine?



Leblond Cutter Grinder Main View.jpg


Active Member
Active Member
My 2 cents from the refurbishing of my South Bend 9a. Use a brush on oil based enamel. Use a good brush. Multiple coats. I used regular Rustoleum. But I would have looked for one of the commercial or professional lines had I not been restricted by VOC laws in CA (faster curing). If you use a good brush, and take care in masking, it should be a harder thicker coating than anything from a spray can. If I were to spray, I'd be using a real spray gun. Brushed finishes can turn out quite nice if done right with oil based.

Good luck, and look forward to a build log if you have it in you. I want a nice T&C to restore myself.


Active User
Active Member



John York
H-M Supporter-Premium
Many years ago, I had a Leblond similar to those pictured, but driven from overhead works, approx. WW-1 vintage; It was the handiest T&C grinder that I have ever had so far as setup and ease of operation are concerned; the wheelhead stayed stationary and the knee swiveled 360 deg. so that both wheels could be used in any angular position. The worst machine considering easy setup and use was a KO Lee.


Global Moderator
Staff member
H-M Supporter-Premium
.....snip..... The worst machine considering easy setup and use was a KO Lee.
REALLY!!! I love my K. O. Lee T & C grinder. I have zero issues with setups and have ground & sharpen a lot of different tools on it since I bought it about four years ago. In fact, I prefer it over a No. 2 Cincinnati one any day. Yeah, I realize it is not heavy duty as a Cinci, I don't do anything that requires one.


John York
H-M Supporter-Premium
Perhaps it matters which model you have, mine was the smallest one; it seemed like every time I set up a job, I ran out of travel room. Only good thing about it was that it was free, and came with nearly all the tooling. As it turned out I got a good appraisal on it and sold it along with my business and took home a 1940s #1 Norton which I like much better; it came out of government storage and was in excellent condition, with a full complement of tooling. When I sold the business, I was extolling the virtues of the KO Lee, about how good condition it was, having only been used in a state college shop, how it had so much tooling, etc. He said, when I finished going on about it, "now tell what you REALLY think about it; I replied "I think it is a piece of s--t" He just gave me a big smile; HE KNEW!


Active User
Registered Member
I am in the process of doing the same to a Cincinnati No 1 1/2 grinder, circa 1920. Lots of paint, several layers.
I suspect on mine that it is lead based so am using a good mask while chewing the stuff off with a wire cup wheel on an angle grinder.

Rustoleum brushed works great, I am not bothering with smoothing the castings out after stripping.

The overall concept/layout of your machine and mine is similar. I will be starting a thread in a few days.

My cost so far is $100 CAD plus a pint of paint.

These seem like very versatile machines, the only thing I have not seen listed is drill grinding, it does everything else including circular saw blades.


John York
H-M Supporter-Premium
I have a #2 Cincinnati from the 1940s (war finish) it has been in the weather, not sure if it is rebuildable, thinking of junking it, but have nearly all the tooling for it to sell.