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[How do I?] Full Resto/rebuild Of A Leblond No.2 Cutter Grinder

Discussion in 'MACHINE RESTORATION & WAY SCRAPING' started by Matthew Nelson, Mar 31, 2016.

  1. Matthew Nelson

    Matthew Nelson United States Iron Registered Member

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    I've just started a new project (famous last words...). I was able to get a LeBlond No. 2 Cutter Grinder for a VERY good price. I'll give you the good-news/ bad-news:

    Good-News:
    - Very little rust
    - Everything moves smoothly and easily
    - Almost no run-out, and very little play in the Y and Z axis
    Bad-News:
    - 3-4 layers of paint on most of the machine (and it was painted as a whole piece)
    - Because of the excess paint, I'm having a hard time disassembling everything
    - The X axis got stuck after I started removing parts

    I have a few questions for the community:
    - Have any of you restored one of these? I can't find much info about them on the web.
    - I've never liked "Tool Room Grey" and since I'm not planning selling this guy when I'm done, I'm thinking about doing it in navy blue (with white accents for the lettering and some of the other bits). I'm planning on using engine enamel from a spray paint can. What brands have y'all tried? Is there a great one to use, and others to avoid?
    - It didn't come with any accessories. It there a good place (other than eBay) to find the various attachment for this machine?

    Thanks,

    -Matt

    Leblond Cutter Grinder Main View.jpg
     
  2. FOMOGO

    FOMOGO United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Nice. Inquiring minds want to know. How much is very little. Mike
     
  3. Matthew Nelson

    Matthew Nelson United States Iron Registered Member

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  4. chips&more

    chips&more United States Active User Active Member

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    You lucky dog! I will give you twice that!
     
  5. kd4gij

    kd4gij United States Active User Active Member

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    Nice score.:congrats: A heat gun will get that paint off with ease. Oh and :you suck:
     
    Steve Shannon likes this.
  6. tertiaryjim

    tertiaryjim Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    What that guy said X 2.
    Congratulations.
     
  7. sbx

    sbx United States Active Member Active Member

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    My 2 cents from the refurbishing of my South Bend 9a. Use a brush on oil based enamel. Use a good brush. Multiple coats. I used regular Rustoleum. But I would have looked for one of the commercial or professional lines had I not been restricted by VOC laws in CA (faster curing). If you use a good brush, and take care in masking, it should be a harder thicker coating than anything from a spray can. If I were to spray, I'd be using a real spray gun. Brushed finishes can turn out quite nice if done right with oil based.

    Good luck, and look forward to a build log if you have it in you. I want a nice T&C to restore myself.
     
  8. Matthew Nelson

    Matthew Nelson United States Iron Registered Member

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    Thanks for the advice about brushing vs spraying.
     
  9. ScrapMetal

    ScrapMetal United States Active User Active Member

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    Attached Files:

  10. Matthew Nelson

    Matthew Nelson United States Iron Registered Member

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    Thank Ron, it's a great place to start.

    -Matt
     
  11. benmychree

    benmychree United States John York H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Many years ago, I had a Leblond similar to those pictured, but driven from overhead works, approx. WW-1 vintage; It was the handiest T&C grinder that I have ever had so far as setup and ease of operation are concerned; the wheelhead stayed stationary and the knee swiveled 360 deg. so that both wheels could be used in any angular position. The worst machine considering easy setup and use was a KO Lee.
     
  12. 4gsr

    4gsr Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    REALLY!!! I love my K. O. Lee T & C grinder. I have zero issues with setups and have ground & sharpen a lot of different tools on it since I bought it about four years ago. In fact, I prefer it over a No. 2 Cincinnati one any day. Yeah, I realize it is not heavy duty as a Cinci, I don't do anything that requires one.
     
  13. benmychree

    benmychree United States John York H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Perhaps it matters which model you have, mine was the smallest one; it seemed like every time I set up a job, I ran out of travel room. Only good thing about it was that it was free, and came with nearly all the tooling. As it turned out I got a good appraisal on it and sold it along with my business and took home a 1940s #1 Norton which I like much better; it came out of government storage and was in excellent condition, with a full complement of tooling. When I sold the business, I was extolling the virtues of the KO Lee, about how good condition it was, having only been used in a state college shop, how it had so much tooling, etc. He said, when I finished going on about it, "now tell what you REALLY think about it; I replied "I think it is a piece of s--t" He just gave me a big smile; HE KNEW!
     
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  14. gerritv22

    gerritv22 Active User Registered Member

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    I am in the process of doing the same to a Cincinnati No 1 1/2 grinder, circa 1920. Lots of paint, several layers.
    I suspect on mine that it is lead based so am using a good mask while chewing the stuff off with a wire cup wheel on an angle grinder.

    Rustoleum brushed works great, I am not bothering with smoothing the castings out after stripping.

    The overall concept/layout of your machine and mine is similar. I will be starting a thread in a few days.

    My cost so far is $100 CAD plus a pint of paint.

    These seem like very versatile machines, the only thing I have not seen listed is drill grinding, it does everything else including circular saw blades.
     
  15. benmychree

    benmychree United States John York H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I have a #2 Cincinnati from the 1940s (war finish) it has been in the weather, not sure if it is rebuildable, thinking of junking it, but have nearly all the tooling for it to sell.
     

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