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- Jun 12, 2014
- Messages
- 4,998
Well after many years and at least 6 different mechanical and electrical edge finders, I finally broke down and purchased a Haimer edge finder. I have not found the traditional mechanical ones to be very accurate, purchased a few US made LED types that was decent but the tip started to wobble with time, then more recently a SPI ball tip LED which when new was out over 0.007" (junk). I had seen the dial indicator type, but both the initial expense and in some cases repair was prohibitive. The Haimer probably falls into the latter, but when I add up all the $$ spent on useless edge finders in my tool drawer, I am probably pretty close to the cost of the Haimer. The desirable feature of the Haimer, is it has a break away tip should you exceed the movement range of 3mm and very importantly it is user replaceable (other vendors you need to ship it back to Germany to be fitted and recalibrate $$$). According to one vendor that cells this model, 99% of the incidents with these is a tip crash and they break. I purchase my Haimer through Tormach for warranty purposes and also for technical support, which I had to use for the setup and was very pleased with their direction. http://www.tormach.com/store/index....ow&ref=33029&gclid=CJjNnaXHpMYCFcdcfgodKZIAbQ
I went with there newer Metric model (Haimer 3D Sensor - New Generation 80.360.00.NG) for several reasons. As an edge finder, you are only concerned about the 0 point, the gradations are easier and finer on the metric version, the shaft is 12mm (which fits my 1/2" chucks, although I have purchased a 12mm R8 and ER32 collet), and this model has a large dial face with a compact body (relative to their other two mechanical models). I find it very easy to "0" the needle to the unit resolution which is 0.0004". The ball is 4mm, smaller than the US version of 0.200", so allows centering of smaller holes. The Haimer works by advancing the ball against a surface until the dial and movement indicators swings from it's static position of 2.0000mm to o.0000 (i.e. the diameter of the tip). At this point you are at dead "0", no need to subtract or 1/2 the diameter of the tip. This is also done without the machine turning, i.e. static movement. The Haimer works for non-conductive materials, which is a big plus in my book, as the LED don't work on things like plastic.
So out of the box you can zero the indicator in the X and Y axis at the tip/indicator, they recommend using a dial indicator, but I found it easier to use one face of my vice to find "0" then back off the indicator rotate 180 degrees re-advance to the same point with the DRO and reheck the "0". I did this in the X direction and then the Y direction until I was within 0.0002" in any axis, but requires a DRO or a mechanical indicator with a 0.0001" resolution. I then put a precision ground rod/block 1.0000" in my vice and torqued it down and took a reading with the Haimer zeroing the dial at one face and then the other. With repeat checks it measured to 1.0000 +/- 2/10,000 on repeat measurements. I did have few caveats, first my precision Jacobs chuck with an R8 spindle stunk, and was out quite a bit. I switched to a Glacern keyless chuck which holds very good tolerance, but I hate using keyless chucks, but used it to "0" the Haimer. The Haimer did not initially read "0" on the dial in its static state, and as such you will not get the proper length between 2 points when it is zeroed. Call to Tormach, very helpful, the meter must read "0" in its resting position (-2mm) and this is set by 4 small 1.5mm set screws around the face of the dial, you unload one while tightening the opposing screw. THIS WAS NOT IN THE MANUAL. This basically sets the "0" point for the movement, and so this was tweaked to read exactly "0" on the dial (-2.0000mm). Presto, zeroed the DRO on one face of my vise and zeroed the Haimer, advanced to the other face with the "1 inch" block and zeroed the Haimer and we have 1.0000".
The main shortcoming I see of these type of mechanical units (other than the price) is that they do have a certain fragility should you drop it or if it gets knocked around a lot. You need to be a bit more conscious when using it, such as loosening a chuck and having it drop. Replacement stylus/ball on this unit is reasonable, and as mentioned you can "calibrate the needle 0 point" should it change. The movement is supposedly shock resistant, I still would not drop it on the floor. All in all, it is a bit of a middle of the road between very inexpensive albeit inaccurate edge finders, and very expensive electronic edge finder. YMMV.
I went with there newer Metric model (Haimer 3D Sensor - New Generation 80.360.00.NG) for several reasons. As an edge finder, you are only concerned about the 0 point, the gradations are easier and finer on the metric version, the shaft is 12mm (which fits my 1/2" chucks, although I have purchased a 12mm R8 and ER32 collet), and this model has a large dial face with a compact body (relative to their other two mechanical models). I find it very easy to "0" the needle to the unit resolution which is 0.0004". The ball is 4mm, smaller than the US version of 0.200", so allows centering of smaller holes. The Haimer works by advancing the ball against a surface until the dial and movement indicators swings from it's static position of 2.0000mm to o.0000 (i.e. the diameter of the tip). At this point you are at dead "0", no need to subtract or 1/2 the diameter of the tip. This is also done without the machine turning, i.e. static movement. The Haimer works for non-conductive materials, which is a big plus in my book, as the LED don't work on things like plastic.
So out of the box you can zero the indicator in the X and Y axis at the tip/indicator, they recommend using a dial indicator, but I found it easier to use one face of my vice to find "0" then back off the indicator rotate 180 degrees re-advance to the same point with the DRO and reheck the "0". I did this in the X direction and then the Y direction until I was within 0.0002" in any axis, but requires a DRO or a mechanical indicator with a 0.0001" resolution. I then put a precision ground rod/block 1.0000" in my vice and torqued it down and took a reading with the Haimer zeroing the dial at one face and then the other. With repeat checks it measured to 1.0000 +/- 2/10,000 on repeat measurements. I did have few caveats, first my precision Jacobs chuck with an R8 spindle stunk, and was out quite a bit. I switched to a Glacern keyless chuck which holds very good tolerance, but I hate using keyless chucks, but used it to "0" the Haimer. The Haimer did not initially read "0" on the dial in its static state, and as such you will not get the proper length between 2 points when it is zeroed. Call to Tormach, very helpful, the meter must read "0" in its resting position (-2mm) and this is set by 4 small 1.5mm set screws around the face of the dial, you unload one while tightening the opposing screw. THIS WAS NOT IN THE MANUAL. This basically sets the "0" point for the movement, and so this was tweaked to read exactly "0" on the dial (-2.0000mm). Presto, zeroed the DRO on one face of my vise and zeroed the Haimer, advanced to the other face with the "1 inch" block and zeroed the Haimer and we have 1.0000".
The main shortcoming I see of these type of mechanical units (other than the price) is that they do have a certain fragility should you drop it or if it gets knocked around a lot. You need to be a bit more conscious when using it, such as loosening a chuck and having it drop. Replacement stylus/ball on this unit is reasonable, and as mentioned you can "calibrate the needle 0 point" should it change. The movement is supposedly shock resistant, I still would not drop it on the floor. All in all, it is a bit of a middle of the road between very inexpensive albeit inaccurate edge finders, and very expensive electronic edge finder. YMMV.
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