- Joined
- Jun 27, 2016
- Messages
- 378
No problem on questions. A couple of things, After you get the plate off of the yoke and get the sliding block out of the way, BE SURE and check the pivot pin is still attached firmly to the adjusting plate. This thing is a real ****ty design, the pivot is pressed into the adjusting plate and welded, not enough area that contacts the pivot and the adjusting plate and it brakes loose. This is what takes that all the force of moving the ram back and forth. Mine was fixed before and it broke again. I remade all of this, it's a big job.
Second, The block has to have very little clearance if you can properly lube it. It's a high wear item though, I set mine up pretty tight and it's starting to loose up a little, but way better than the factory loose setup. Next item is the yoke itself, as mentioned before it was worn more in the center of the stroke more than at the ends, I had to scrape the yoke to make up for wear.
To summarize, check the pivot first before worrying about the sliding block clearance, if the pivot ok, then its up to you if you can live with the clank of a loose fitting block. If it has pivot problems then you have to fix the pivot for sure, because it will cause even more wear on the block and the yoke.
Second, The block has to have very little clearance if you can properly lube it. It's a high wear item though, I set mine up pretty tight and it's starting to loose up a little, but way better than the factory loose setup. Next item is the yoke itself, as mentioned before it was worn more in the center of the stroke more than at the ends, I had to scrape the yoke to make up for wear.
To summarize, check the pivot first before worrying about the sliding block clearance, if the pivot ok, then its up to you if you can live with the clank of a loose fitting block. If it has pivot problems then you have to fix the pivot for sure, because it will cause even more wear on the block and the yoke.