[How do I?] How to make a serrated roller?

[piper184]

How about cutting really coarse threads on the roller? Not very deep and start several threads at different locations around the diameter. You could even run left hand threads the same way. End effect should be something like a coarse knurl. Add as many threads and make them as deep as you need.
Look up multi-start threading to see how it is done

 

[7milesup]

You would need closer spacing of the serrations, too deep or wide may vary the feed rate and may show up as ripples when planing. Have you given some thought to using something like a 60 or 90 degree Chamfer Mill for close serations, another possibility if you mill is large enough would be a slitting saw and an indexer for the bar. What is the diameter of the rod, might look onto an inexpensive bump type knurler to handle a larger diameter or make one.

https://www.amazon.com/Brand-Knurls-Rotating-Knurling-Holder/dp/B07BVQNTDS/ref=sr_1_29

Unlikely to be cost effective, but there are sites that will re-manufacturer/recover the rollers.

New & Recovered Rubber Rollers - Los Angeles, California

Ames Industrial can manufacture and re-condition a wide variety of rubber and urethane coated rollers from a variety of moldable materials.

www.amesrubberonline.com

One thing you can likely do would be to get what I call a straight knurl. Then machine grooves
on your roller using a 60 degree thread cutting tool cutting 60 thousandths deep and spacing
each groove 60 thousandths apart all along the roller. Then run the straight knurl all along it
just using a single knurl. After making the grooving on the roller, the knurling doesn't take much
pressure to make a shape that is very aggressive. You could experiment with a more pointed groove
tool and alter the spacing if you want something with more bite.


The knurl tool looks like this:

I bought a pair of straight knurls on E-bay for just a few dollars. I use this combination of machining
and knurling a lot if you really want some grab.




View attachment 459102
Your roller would have teeth like this.

How about cutting really coarse threads on the roller? Not very deep and start several threads at different locations around the diameter. You could even run left hand threads the same way. End effect should be something like a coarse knurl. Add as many threads and make them as deep as you need.
Look up multi-start threading to see how it is done

There are some really good ideas coming out of this thread. Thank you!

@mksj Mark, the roller is 1.375" in diameter. It turns out that after trying my bump type knurler yesterday, I discovered that there is a science to making knurls i.e.: knurler wheel diameter vs workpiece diameter.

@cathead I really like this idea. I will have to look into the straight knurlers and wheel diameter.

@piper184 Another great idea that I might experiment with tonight depending on how early I get home from work.

I felt like this project was a mirror image of this video...

 

[pontiac428]

I felt like this project was a mirror image of this video...

Wow, that hit close to home. That is how I live my life, no matter how many pills the doc gives me.

 

[piper184]

Just another random thought on the "threading" idea.
Make threads of different TPI in both the right and left hand direction. This would (to my feeble mind anyway) give a more random pattern and help camouflage any bite marks it might leave on the wood.

You can practice/experiment with different settings on some PVC pipe of approximately the same diameter to save steel.

Have you seen the plastic-dip product where you can plastic coat things like pliers handles? I have seen that same product in a spray can.

Also what about just wrapping the roller with friction tape? I think most hardware stores still carry it in 3/4" widths but perhaps a sporting goods/athletics store would have wider tape for bats and tennis racquets? Might not last too long, but fairly easy and inexpensive to try.

Same idea using old fashioned rubber electrical tape. If overlapped slightly, it will vulcanize to itself. Old school electrical practices. Rubber tape for insulation and friction tape for physical protection.

 

[cathead]

@cathead I really like this idea. I will have to look into the straight knurlers and wheel diameter.

Thanks for liking the idea. The only problem that one can encounter is that the diameter
of the roller may not match the knurl requiring one to machine off several thousandths off
the roller until the knurl pattern matches the knurl. A lot of the time it works fine on the first
try. This phenomenon occurs with all knurling of course.

 

[woodchucker]

metal rollers are very common on fixed planers, benchtop not so much. Will it work... Possibly. I have no input on doing it, as I don't have a fixed planer, so my memory of what they look like is a little off. My recollection is that they are spiral on the large units I worked with long, long ago.

 

[Firstram]

You only need grip in one direction for a feed roller. Just offset a large cutter and use the corner to cut teeth as needed.

 

[Firstram]

metal rollers are very common on fixed planers, benchtop not so much. Will it work... Possibly. I have no input on doing it, as I don't have a fixed planer, so my memory of what they look like is a little off. My recollection is that they are spiral on the large units I worked with long, long ago.

The larger planers have segmented, spring loaded infeed rollers that float around a shaft. This allows them to evenly feed rough sawn lumber that is not a consistent thickness.

 

[7milesup]

I just realized that I did not provide much context as to where this roller is being used. Attached is a picture.

 

[7milesup]

You only need grip in one direction for a feed roller. Just offset a large cutter and use the corner to cut teeth as needed.


View attachment 459155

That is what I was trying to do in the first pictures that I posted but I don't believe my cutter was big enough. I might give it a go again with your suggestion of a bigger cutter.