I Want To Build This Cartridge Case Annealer

John_Dennis

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I want to build this cartridge case Annealer. It looks like an easy design to replicate. The concept is to heat the ends of a rifle case to a specific temperature to anneal the neck before re-sizing to extend case life. I have a nice little torch for this project already.


I want an RPM meter to help with repeatability http://www.amazon.com/TmallTech-Dig...UTF8&qid=1452821547&sr=8-5&keywords=rpm+meter

I am wondering if anyone has experimented with these RPM meters. I really need one designed for precisely measuring low RPM in 5-9 rpm range. I could also measure duration instead, but I haven't found a way to do that.

this meter would also be nice for my machine tools.

My thought is to drive the large and small capstans with separate motors for simplicity with a speed control on the large capstan to control the heating duration.
http://www.amazon.com/Small-Worm-Re...=1452823862&sr=8-11&keywords=TSINY+gear+motor

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Controll...8&sr=8-66-spons&keywords=12v+gear+motor&psc=1


One of my concerns is that I do not want to transfer too much heat to the motor shaft. I think a stainless steel shaft on bronze bearings would be heat resistant enough.

Does anyone have any wisdom? I am wondering if anyone has experimented with these RPM meters. I really need one designed for precisely measuring low RPM in 5-9 rpm range. I could also measure duration instead, but I haven't found a way to do that.

Thanks

John Dennis
 
Couldn't you just make one that uses a gear motor that runs in the range you want? Then it's just plug and play after you add a couple more gears to drive the small roller. Instead of the fixed position "bump" on the large pick-up wheel you could make an adjustable clamp on thing to trigger the release. The original system looks very nice, well thought out and executed.
 
Building one of these has been on my project list for quite a while.
A few thoughts from my own tentative plans

The case roller should be aluminum to draw the heat off the case, only the neck and shoulder should annealed.
A small gear motor for the roller that is separate from the man drive motor is good, this way loading speed and dwell time are easier to adjust.
No need for a tachometer, you will have to adjust each batch since there are too many variables.
A shield to prevent the flame from heating the body might be needed. You really really do not want to anneal the body.
The annealed case should either have a very short drop, or should always drop case head first.
 
Well that's neat! Thanks for sharing.....

Two thoughts:
1) With the design shown the wheel that guides/holds the cartridge is far enough away from the flame that it should not get very hot. It's (thermal) mass should also help.

2) Drop it in a pan of water....really? For me I only immediately cool things that I want to remain hard (and therefore brittle)..... I admit to knowing nothing about guns and ammo; my experience is all with steel, but really? Really?

Please educate me on it!

-brino
 
FYI, a BBQ rotisserie motor runs at approximately the speed you want an annealer to rotate at and already has a provided square drive !
 
2) Drop it in a pan of water....really? For me I only immediately cool things that I want to remain hard (and therefore brittle)..... I admit to knowing nothing about guns and ammo; my experience is all with steel, but really? Really?

It really has nothing to do with ammo specifically. The way to harden brass (and aluminum) is to work it between rollers or other mechanical stressing. To anneal it, heat it and cool rapidly, The opposite of ferritic metals.
 
The way to harden brass (and aluminum) is to work it between rollers or other mechanical stressing. To anneal it, heat it and cool rapidly, The opposite of ferritic metals.

Thanks Jim!
What about copper? If I want to undo the "work hardening" that occurs?

-brino

PS: sorry if it's seen as a post hijack! No offense intended!
 
Thanks Jim!
What about copper? If I want to undo the "work hardening" that occurs?

-brino

PS: sorry if it's seen as a post hijack! No offense intended!

It applies to all copper/copper alloys
 
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