Is There A Good Way To Make Oversized/taprered Drill Bits Common Jacobs Chuck?

Lots of great responses guys big thanks! I should have mentioned I am just a hobbist starting out (if that wasn't already apparent). The metal lathe has a Morse taper 2 tailstock and 3 jaw side, I think my Frankenstein press has a mt2 but I haven't pulled the Jacobs Chuck out to verify this. (Thanks brino for that how to link!). I like the idea of using collets and the tapered shaft and realise there is more mechanical grip that way. With some of the bits being tapered some being ground and some just being 1 inch or so with no taper, I would rather just make them all consistent. They will only be used every now and then so I will just turn the bits down and really tighten up the Jacobs.

Thanks to you guys for covering the fact that the bits shanks are not hardened, that's news to me but it makes good sense. The shanks of the bits look ground with a grinder so I assumed they were hardened.
 
jere m said:
I think my Frankenstein press has a mt2 but I haven't pulled the Jacobs Chuck out to verify this.
Click to expand...

So then you can keep the MT-2 taper shank bits and use them directly in the spindle.
The other may still need to be modified.

One problem with the collet suggestion is that something needs to push or pull the collets in. Typically, it's either:
1) a draw bar, but you need a hollow spindle (which I've never seen on a drill press due to the splined drive shaft), or
2) you need a threaded nose around your MT2 spindle for a collet nut; I have seen a few drill presses with that, but it's not common.

I have seen a male MT2 to female MT3 socket adapters like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Morse-Taper-A...qid=1441074771&sr=8-63&keywords=morse+adapter
These can add a lot of length to the entire arrangement.

-brino
 
20150901_000149.jpg

I have yet to attempt to take the quill assembly apart but there is a larger nut above the Jacobs Chuck (I need to find a larger wrench). just out of curiosty might that be the threaded nose you mentioned? or does it have another fuction perhaps? 20150901_000333.jpg
 
Jere,

It is difficult to tell from your photos exactly what kind of spindle that is.
If you crank the spindle down, does it have the "window" for driving a wedge in like the other link I posted above?

I know you said it's a "Frankenstein" drill press, but look for any indication of manufacturer. Pictures may also help someone here identify it.

After my last post I also realized you could go with a collet chuck like these:
http://www.amazon.com/HHIP-3900-0502-Spring-Collet-12-piece/dp/B00R138SNK
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ER32-MT...ER32-collet-/160632780638?hash=item256675b75e
One issue though is that they are designed for a draw-bar to pull the tapers together.

Of course the big drill bits do NOT require a draw-bar, so you may not for drilling. Just beware that with say an MT-2 drill bit it has that flat tang on the back end and that's what the wedge hits to push it out of the spindle. The collet holders above do NOT have a flat tang! However, you could add a properly sized bolt or socket-head cap screw (perhaps with lock-tite on the threads) to provide the same function. I use that idea in my lathe tail stock with my 3-jaw chuck. Without some means of ejection one could get stuck in your drill-press spindle!

However, do not use the collets for milling without a draw-bar or collet nut holding the tapers together. The side forces and interrupted cuts during milling can lead to the tapers coming apart.

If you go with collets, make sure you get a collet system that allows the large sizes you need.
I know my ER-32 system only goes up to 3/4", that may not be big enough for you.

This link shows some size ranges for various collet systems(though I do NOT know if it is perfect or complete):
http://www.techniksusa.com/metal/cnaerpci.htm

Let us know which direction you go.
Good Luck!
-brino
 
When I was working at GE, my Dad or one of his buddies would ask our foreman if we would turn down a drill shaft so it would fit a 3/8" or 1/2" drill motor. Use a carbide lathe bit, most of the shafts are soft compared to the cutting end.

Nice assortment of drills for $20.
 
brino said:
Jere,

It is difficult to tell from your photos exactly what kind of spindle that is.
If you crank the spindle down, does it have the "window" for driving a wedge in like the other link I posted above?

I know you said it's a "Frankenstein" drill press, but look for any indication of manufacturer. Pictures may also help someone here identify it.

After my last post I also realized you could go with a collet chuck like these:
http://www.amazon.com/HHIP-3900-0502-Spring-Collet-12-piece/dp/B00R138SNK
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ER32-MT...ER32-collet-/160632780638?hash=item256675b75e
One issue though is that they are designed for a draw-bar to pull the tapers together.

Of course the big drill bits do NOT require a draw-bar, so you may not for drilling. Just beware that with say an MT-2 drill bit it has that flat tang on the back end and that's what the wedge hits to push it out of the spindle. The collet holders above do NOT have a flat tang! However, you could add a properly sized bolt or socket-head cap screw (perhaps with lock-tite on the threads) to provide the same function. I use that idea in my lathe tail stock with my 3-jaw chuck. Without some means of ejection one could get stuck in your drill-press spindle!

However, do not use the collets for milling without a draw-bar or collet nut holding the tapers together. The side forces and interrupted cuts during milling can lead to the tapers coming apart.

If you go with collets, make sure you get a collet system that allows the large sizes you need.
I know my ER-32 system only goes up to 3/4", that may not be big enough for you.

This link shows some size ranges for various collet systems(though I do NOT know if it is perfect or complete):
http://www.techniksusa.com/metal/cnaerpci.htm

Let us know which direction you go.
Good Luck!
-brino
Click to expand...
thanks for the crash course in collets and adaptors brino! the drill press is unmarked manufacturing plates have all been removed. I have been told that I have a head from a chas g Allen ("sensitive drill)" was the model possibly gang drill. I have contacted the company ( family members still own it and sell parts) and was told hardly anything I have was original. the castings for the head were made for 30 years if I remember correctly starting around 1910 or so. mine has some bearing that are patented in 1904 so that's all I know for certain. some where along the line the one I have was changed from line drive to a small split phase motor with v belts.

there isn't a window on the quill it seems and looking at photos of other Allen presses there isn't an exposed threaded section. it must be for the Chuck like you thought. the Chuck isn't original to the machine but it is pretty old.

20150901_133756.jpg
 
Last edited:
Bill C. said:
When I was working at GE, my Dad or one of his buddies would ask our foreman if we would turn down a drill shaft so it would fit a 3/8" or 1/2" drill motor. Use a carbide lathe bit, most of the shafts are soft compared to the cutting end.

Nice assortment of drills for $20.
Click to expand...

thanks for the tip bill, the bits that I can use have really come in handy lately. I don't think I have even seen larger sizes at the local big box stores. so I got lucky coming across the bits. they are all USA made from different companies and all pretty sharp.
 
jere m said:
View attachment 109724

I have yet to attempt to take the quill assembly apart but there is a larger nut above the Jacobs Chuck (I need to find a larger wrench). just out of curiosty might that be the threaded nose you mentioned? or does it have another fuction perhaps?
Click to expand...

That's a Model 6A drill chuck in the picture. That has a Jacobs taper mount in the back of it. If it was threaded, it would be a Model 6B chuck.
The nut is more than likely used to extract the chuck from the spindle. Get you a open end wrench on that nut and hold backup somehow, twist on it and see what happens. I sure the nut is right handed.

Ken
 
4gsr said:
That's a Model 6A drill chuck in the picture. That has a Jacobs taper mount in the back of it. If it was threaded, it would be a Model 6B chuck.
The nut is more than likely used to extract the chuck from the spindle. Get you a open end wrench on that nut and hold backup somehow, twist on it and see what happens. I sure the nut is right handed.

Ken
Click to expand...

Very good, thanks for chiming in in ken and good eye!
 
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