Just started reconditioning a pretty decent 101.07301 have some questions for the experienced!

[yendor]

The realy cheap version of the Felt Plugs for the headstock is to use DREMEL Buffing Wheels they fit perfect.
The one that are screw fit to the manderls.
They have a TINY Hole in the middle where the screw on Mandrel fits but as soon as you add oil it swells up and that hole goes away.

 

[wa5cab]

No, definitely not F1. Not as bad as my first try at it years ago before I learned that Clausing still sold a lot of parts for my 3996 but not much better. If you are going to buy a sheet of felt and an arch punch set, of what McMaster offers, maybe F13 but more likely F26. F1 is so dense that it will not hold much oil and it will take an appreciable length of time for oil put on one side to soak through to the other.

The Dremel buffing wheels might work OK but I have never tried them. Looking at them, I think that it would take 2 or 3 per oil cup.

 

[makeparts]

No, definitely not F1. Not as bad as my first try at it years ago before I learned that Clausing still sold a lot of parts for my 3996 but not much better. If you are going to buy a sheet of felt and an arch punch set, of what McMaster offers, maybe F13 but more likely F26. F1 is so dense that it will not hold much oil and it will take an appreciable length of time for oil put on one side to soak through to the other.

The Dremel buffing wheels might work OK but I have never tried them. Looking at them, I think that it would take 2 or 3 per oil cup.

how about the hollow paper/fabric or leather punches? I think they are usually smooth blade circular cutters, but they could be slit at a few spots around the circumverence, to cut felt, maybe?

 

[makeparts]

how's this for lubrication:
1) Vactra 2 for the ways etc.
2) DTE heavy medium ISO68 for the sleeve bearings/spindle
3) I found a place that sells 10oz. tubes of Carter Open Gear lube for the change gears

I've done a lot of research, and this seems to be the best I can come up with...am I on crazy pills here?

 

[wa5cab]

Sounds pretty good, except that when I get around to finding some, I am going to try some Lubriplate Gear Shield on the change gears.

And the DTE would be OK as a substitute for SAE 20 for everything other than the ways, dovetails and open gears.

 

[makeparts]

Sounds pretty good, except that when I get around to finding some, I am going to try some Lubriplate Gear Shield on the change gears.

And the DTE would be OK as a substitute for SAE 20 for everything other than the ways, dovetails and open gears.

so as I was at an auto parts store for another reason yesterday, I wandered over to the oil/grease section, and a grizzled automechanic veteran came to help me... we discussed machine lubrication, what I was looking for, and he seemed to know a bit about it

we found that the store (AdvanceAuto/Carquest) has proprietary brand versions of the 3 items (and more) for what I was proposing to use on my lathe. and they had, in stock, 5 gallon buckets, 1 gal containers, and 1 qt. containers, all for pretty low prices... the pictures aren't very good...the grease picture is cutoff, but along the top row the very far left grease for 8.99, and the next lower level on a hanger was another type of open gear lube for 7.79 in a green container. I don't think any of them contained any detergents...not 100% sure though.

The 8.99 open gear lube that was NGLI2, moly based
an oil that is an ISO68
several weights of hybraulic oil (SAE20)


I don't know much about them, as the labels weren't very complete, but I suppose, in a pinch, these could be used if it was urgent...

 

[makeparts]

The parts from Clausing arrived today, so hopefully this weekend is productive. I have to get back to work on Monday, so I wanted to try and at least get it mounted, re-assembled and levelled.

Most were small cosmetic items... The bearings were what I was waiting for, to start reassembly. The sleeve bearings are good matches. Glad Im replacing them...the old right one is pretty scored up.

The thrust bearing is a question, for me though. The front and rear bores seem to be the same for both bearings, but I didn't want to use a digital caliper to check, and risk scoring a race. Im waiting for a replacement telescoping bore gauge to check it (just so happens the one that needed replacing covers the IDs of the front and rear races). Should be here tomorrow or Sat.

The thickness is dramatically different. More than I thought it would be.

But this is the bearing the Clausing tech said was the right item, as a replacement for the Nice 5774 thrust bearing that I have. He even sent me a pic that Clausing labelled for the bearing (S10F on edge pic attached).

anybody have any thoughts?

 

[makeparts]

The other part that was interesting was the M6-255 shim fiber/paper washer. It's the same material as the ones I found in the baggies.

There were no shim washers for the backgear shaft, but there was 1 different fiber washer floating in a baggie, and and a 2nd that was located on the larger diameter unthreaded portion of the lead screw Fwd./Rev. Lever Stud. So I think a PO had put 2 paper shims on the Lever stud also. They aren't usable, as 1 was torn, and both are very dried out and brittle.

anyone ever heard of shim washers at this location?

 

[wa5cab]

First, if you look at the progression of the illustrated or exploded view drawing over the years from 1945 to 1976, you will find that the earlier ones tend not to show all of the commercial parts (like screws and pins) that are actually present. And in general, the assemblies seem to vary a little over the years. I and a member of another list who happened to have several 618 headstocks to use for reference came to the conclusion that the 1950 dated manual, at least for the back gears, was the closest one to how the majority of them were assembled. I redrew a few parts so that they actually looked like they would fit where he said that they had to go. And to the best of my knowledge, the 1950 version that is in Downloads and in Files on the A-C Group on groups.io is the nearest to being like the majority of actual 618's and 101.21400's, and excepting the headstock. spindle and spindle bearings, and countershaft bracket, 101.07301's.

The 1976 version introduces another washer, 932-004 (2 req'd but only one shown), there is only one M6-253 Collar drawn like it fits the shaft and not the eccentrics, and the M6-255 (only one shown) is drawn as though it fits over the left eccentric.

 

[makeparts]

First, if you look at the progression of the illustrated or exploded view drawing over the years from 1945 to 1976, you will find that the earlier ones tend not to show all of the commercial parts (like screws and pins) that are actually present. And in general, the assemblies seem to vary a little over the years. I and a member of another list who happened to have several 618 headstocks to use for reference came to the conclusion that the 1950 dated manual, at least for the back gears, was the closest one to how the majority of them were assembled. I redrew a few parts so that they actually looked like they would fit where he said that they had to go. And to the best of my knowledge, the 1950 version that is in Downloads and in Files on the A-C Group on groups.io is the nearest to being like the majority of actual 618's and 101.21400's, and excepting the headstock. spindle and spindle bearings, and countershaft bracket, 101.07301's.

The 1976 version introduces another washer, 932-004 (2 req'd but only one shown), there is only one M6-253 Collar drawn like it fits the shaft and not the eccentrics, and the M6-255 (only one shown) is drawn as though it fits over the left eccentric.

copy that thanks for the info.

Im going to enlist my brother and try and get the lathe, counter shaft and motor mounted today... after that, it will hopefully go pretty quickly, for re-assembly.

Im going to wait until I have time to "tune it up", by making sure all the parts are fit/set/aligned/clearance'd properly in the coming weeks, but this is the milestone I was targeting for thru Sunday. I'll have to do some research, and re-read the documentation, see if there is any guidance as to how to do all that.

are there any gotcha's or rules of thumb? (I haven't done any searching for this, so if there are threads on this don't flame too hard!)

again, appreciate the engagement from you all.