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Keyless chuck
- Thread starter hotrats
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2016
- Messages
- 852
It depends on how the arbor is mounted to the chuck. It can be a Jacobs taper mount, thread mount or integral to the chuck. If it's integral to the chuck, you can't remove it. If it's a Jacobs taper mount, you use wedges to release it. If it's threaded on, you will typically see a screw down inside the chuck (usually left hand thread). After removing the screw the chuck should unthread from the arbor. Some chucks are engraved or stamped with the mounting information.
Ted
Ted
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2014
- Messages
- 6,703
Use an MT3-R8 adapter:
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2018
- Messages
- 5,624
Either that or turn the shank round (shorten it too) and hold it in a collet.
I actually prefer short, straight shanks. Less clearance (cranking) required to get them in and out.
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2014
- Messages
- 4,810
An integrated shank chuck is about as short a stick out as you can get, will be the most rigid and will have the least run out (vs. the effected multiple stacked interfaces). Using an R8 to MT3 adapter for the mill would result in the chuck hanging out another 3+" from the spindle, and compounded TIR of multiple interfaces, as well as loss of rigidity and Z height. Seems a bit foolish at the end of the day, when you can get an R8 integral drill chuck for $50-60. I use this one on my lathe (MT3) and it has worked very well, they, they also have a higher end line which I bought for another person and it was excellent.
www.shars.com
