Late model Stevens Favorite Model 30 repair advice needed

[MontanaLon]

A while back, probably 10 years ago at least, I picked up a Stevens Favorite Model 30 in .17HMR for super cheap. It was NIB but had been damaged in shipping which is why I got it for $50. The butt stock is cracked and has a piece missing by the receiver tang on the top. I already have a piece of wood, quilted maple to make a stock and forend for it. Plan was to put a tang sight on it and make it kind of a miniature buffalo rifle. Practical? Not really. Useful? Likely not. Cool as all get out? Most definitely.

The bigger problem is the hammer will only stay cocked some of the time and when it does the trigger pull is ounces. It isn't safe at all so I have never even fired the rifle. I bought it and set it aside to be a project for when I had more time. Well, after the kids came along time was short but now I seem to have more of it with the whole lockdown thing going on.

I am fairly certain the fall which caused the stock damage also damaged one or more pieces of the hammer, trigger and sear. Any replacement parts would likely have to be fabricated. Ought to be fun to at least try it on my own. Should be a good and safe project to pursue and learn on. And of course it gives me a reason to buy some more tools. Not that I or any other machinist needs a reason to own more tools.

The first issue to overcome is how to get the pins that hold the internal workings out. The pins are splined to engage the receiver and light tapping with a brass punch hasn't moved them so I am thinking a press will be needed. But I have no idea how large a press will be necessary. I have been watching the want ads for arbor presses and frequently see 1/2 ton presses for a little bit and 1 ton for a little more. Prices for larger presses seem to rise exponentially and of course the weight of the press does as well. So how large of a press will I need? Obviously, if I could find a large press at an affordable price, it would do what a smaller press would do but the smaller press wouldn't be able to do what a larger one could. What size would you think it would take to move those pins out?

Once the pins are out, I will likely not be reusing them. I think I will replace them with a pin which will be easier to remove as I am pretty sure whatever parts need to be made will need some hand fitting and I'd rather have something like a Chicago screw that will be secure but easier to remove multiple times. I would be making them as well and they seem to be fairly simple to do. Little loctite on the inside when the fitting is complete and removal would be less frequent.

So, throw your ideas at me, I am all ears. No literally, wearing a mask has increased my earspan to near Dumbo like proportions, but at least my hair is now so long it covers up the fact that I could glide if not fly easily.

 

[pdentrem]

Can use a bench vice to press out the pins with care of course!

 

[pontiac428]

Sounds like the sear disconnector spring or even a hammer spring is missing. Parts for the Stevens should be easy to get through Numrich or Brownells, so fabricating parts should not be a necessity. Assembly pins on a firearm are not supposed to be difficult to remove. Sometimes, major assembly pins are tapered, so they are one-way as far as driving goes. If it takes more than a 8-oz hammer and a pin punch, there's something wrong. Rivets are another story, but rivets on guns are only used on permanent assemblies like trigger housings or stocks.

 

[MontanaLon]

Sounds like the sear disconnector spring or even a hammer spring is missing. Parts for the Stevens should be easy to get through Numrich or Brownells, so fabricating parts should not be a necessity. Assembly pins on a firearm are not supposed to be difficult to remove. Sometimes, major assembly pins are tapered, so they are one-way as far as driving goes. If it takes more than a 8-oz hammer and a pin punch, there's something wrong. Rivets are another story, but rivets on guns are only used on permanent assemblies like trigger housings or stocks.

Here's what the end of the pin looks like. Almost looks like splines and pressed into place. If they come out, I may have to ream the holes to be round again.

 

[pontiac428]

Oh, you might need a pin press for that. Like a c-frame with a screw. Too much to go wrong with a hammer or arbor press and punches.

 

[derf]

I've pressed many of those out with a drill press.

 

[MontanaLon]

I cobbled together a pin press out of a piece of scrap steel, a chunk of aluminum to act as a finish protector and a 5/16" SHCS turned down to just under pin size. It took a little bit of pressure and they backed right out. There was nothing missing but the notch on the hammer had a burr, probably from when it was dropped. I used a fine stone to remove the burr. The corresponding nose on the trigger was also rough so I had to create a jig out of a piece of scrap to hold the pins which in turn held the trigger and hammer in place so I could see the engagement surfaces and figure out the proper angle of the nose of the trigger.

I used a medium stone as I had to remove quite a bit of material to correct the damage. And yes, I am aware the hardening is pretty shallow on the part but it is a single shot so I am not terribly worried it will go automatic on me. If it wears poorly I may look into rehardening it later.

First attempt I ended up with a trigger pull somewhere over 10 pounds. But it did "break like glass". A little fine stoning and I got it to 4.5 pounds which is entirely adequate for testing purposes. It still breaks like glass but their is a ton of overtravel. I will have to look into addressing that. There is really nothing to put an overtravel stop into the trigger and the trigger guard moves to open the action so that is not an option. May have to drill and tap the receiver to put in an adjuster.

I have it back together now and have started work on the stock. I cut a piece of the quilted maple for the forend and started inletting for the barrel. I am hogging out the bulk with the mill. It has an octagon barrel so end mills and 45* chamfer bit will get me close enough to finish inletting by hand. The mill will also come in handy for cutting the inletting for the butt stock. I will have to look and see what the dimensions are for that, might have a mill that can get it close and let me inlet by hand. The original stock was really only held in place by the stock bolt. There were no bosses that fit into the tang of the receiver on either side. Probably why it split to begin with. I intend to correct that flaw. It will make more hand work but that is OK, I have been meaning to get a nice set of chisels anyway.