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Confused, you don't have a die handle? How super duper do these threads have to be?
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Left Hand Metric Bolt Needed
- Thread starter lesrhorer
- Start date
Actually, only the die would be required, and they do have one for about $8. As I mentioned earlier, I would prefer a somewhat harder bolt for this application (it is basically being used as an axle), and single-point threading is definitely preferred when threading a hard rod.
US Stock HSS M10 x 1.5mm Tap & M10 x 1.5mm Die Metric Thread Left Hand | eBay
Tap Long:80mm.www.ebay.com
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Won't disagree with you on that. Maybe as an interim solution?
Maybe you could add a reverse tumbler to your lathe? I know there are write ups on doing this on a Grizzly G0602. I also have no LH threading on my lathe. Was thinking of adding the extra gear to mine.
Maybe you could add a reverse tumbler to your lathe? I know there are write ups on doing this on a Grizzly G0602. I also have no LH threading on my lathe. Was thinking of adding the extra gear to mine.
That is certainly a thought. I will look around. My lathe is a Chinese import from Vevor.
Edit: I took a look, and it woud not be very difficult to add a single gear axle between the banjo and the main drive gear. Install the idler, and it will flip the direction of the lead screw. I am definitely going to do this at some point, but I really need the bolt sooner than I would be able to implement the idler gear.
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Well, they need to be decent quality - there is a lot of stress on them. The main consideration, however is the size and hardness of the bolt. Cutting a new thread with a die is not a trivially easy operation. Cutting one in a 10mm somewhat hardened shaft is not the most comforting of ideas. If I try it, I will of course clamp the blank in my lathe and use a die follower.
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Not really clear on the specifications, thread pitch, and how you want to retain the bolt. Mcmaster-Carr has 150-160mm range wither hex or cap screw. The threaded end can be removed and then thread the screw shaft on the lathe. It will not be a rolled thread which would be stronger. I can do that if you want and you give me the specifics. I probably would get two bolts and a left hand nut/or thread die, I can either cut 95% on the lathe and finish with a thread die or cut 100% on the lathe and just fit to a nut. Cost of materials plus shipping from McMasters and to you, if it is something you are interested in PM me with some more details of exactly what you want the bolt to be. I use carbide threaders on the lathe so the hardness should not be a problem. If you want to do it, you might consider 18-8 stainless which will not rust, should thread easily and should be sufficiently strong. In general, the axle does not support the bike weight, it is only used clamp the hub in place, you might post a picture of the current axle and hub mounting. I am only familiar with what is used on regular bikes, not E-Bikes.
www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
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Instead of threaded axles with nuts consider non threaded axles and snap rings.
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They do make 10 mm x 155-158 mm axles with locking nuts on both ends, as well as other types of axles.
www.electricscooterparts.com
bicyclepartsdirect.com
Axles and Axle Hardware for Electric Scooters - ElectricScooterParts.com
Axles for electric scooters, bikes, and go-karts. Electric scooter front wheel axles and rear wheel axles. Axle tension adjusters, axle spacers.
www.electricscooterparts.com
QR Rear Axle, 10mm x 1mm x 158mm - Bicycle Parts Direct
Wheels Mfg axles are made from aircraft quality 4130 alloy steel, made specifically for Wheels Mfg. It’s heat-treated to increase strength without making the axle brittle. Rolled threads make for easy assembly of cones & locknuts.
bicyclepartsdirect.com
'Not an option. The rear axles are independent, and only penetrate into the rear support bar by about 20mm. The bar is over 35cm long. I am not about to try to bore a 10mm hole 35cm deep in what is probably hardened steel.
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Yes, I am quite interested. I will PM you later. Meanwhile, here are some photos. The wheels have 10mm ID roller bearings pressed into the wheel hubs. The existing bolts are 70mm long, one right hand and the other left hand thread. What I want to do is add a 2 inch 4142 steel cylinder to both sides, thus extending the wheel base by 4 inches. I believe this will be the simplest approach. Other than some minor machining on the two cylinders, all that is required is two 10mm x 120mm bolts. Obtaining the right hand thread bolt is easy as can be. The left hand thread bolt is turning out to be a bit of a challenge.
