[Shaper] Little problem with shaper table

I was looking at your drawing and had another idea. I don't have the sleeve in my hand so I am not sure this would work, but here goes. I know that in one spot the sleeve is thin, but you might be able to bore the ID striaght turn a smooth inside sleeve and silver braze it inside the old threaded sleeve. A steel sleeve would add a tremendous amout of strength.
 
Peacock, I really like that method of cutting "square" threads as it seems like it would minimize chatter until nearing the very last cuts. You almost read my mind as last night when I was researching them I had concern about preventing chatter with so much contact and a "flat" cut. Looking back, you're also right on the smaller screw also being square threads, I must have read too much and stressed my last remaining brain cell. :faint: :)

Here's what I have from my SB handbook (love my book) on "square" threads.



On the sleeve, that's another great idea but my drawing isn't to scale and the actual sleeve may not have enough material to safely do it. How thin can you machine cast iron without having it blow up in your face? I've never done any work with CI so that may well be a silly question. One of the things I worry about with the sleeve is that I don't know how the damage was done and if it may have caused fractures that I'm unaware of. That and my unfamiliarity with CI are two big reasons I kind of shy away from working with it.

Thanks again Peacock,

-Ron
 
The inside of your sleeve would not have to be cleaned up completely. I don't know how much solid wall thickness you have. You would only have to get enough to give you suffienct thickness on the support sleeve. I can't answer your question about how much you can go without it "blowing up", but if you are not going to use it you have nothing to lose as long as you have some left to measure. I am sure the center section is as cast so it may have quite a uneven ID. This may not be an option as I can't look at it. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Thanks Peacock. I understand it's a tough call when you don't have something in hand. You do give me lots to think about in any case.

I can't speak as to how thin the center of the sleeve is but it occurs to me I can get a rough idea of the thickness at either end. As I posted earlier the inner diameter is 1 5/8" and (I don't have the sleeve with me) I'm guessing that the threads are about 1/8" deep. The outer diameter of the threaded sleeve is 2 3/8" so, 2 3/8" - 2( 1/8") = 2 1/8". Subtracting the inner diameter leaves 1/2" and we divide that by "2" which leaves 1/4". So the sleeve thickness at both ends (minus the threads themselves) is roughly 1/4". That seems a little large but it's got to be in the ballpark.

-Ron
 
I have really enjoyed this thread. I just found it a bit ago and read the whole thing. I have been yelling at the screen at several points. :D

I would clean up what you have and repair it.

Please don't overlook the fact that something probably jammed and caused the issue. I think you had best lift the whole table off the ways and look at the gibs. I bet you find the problem that caused all this. It would be sad to go to the work to do these repairs and then repeat the problem. I bet there's something broken or jammed (the gibs or swarf in there) that is the root cause. Since you had to 'break it loose' with a hydraulic jack, I'm sure there's something wrong in there.

Waiting eagerly for the next installment. I'm glad that my whole shaper weighs less than your table probably does. :)
 
NevadaBlue said:
I have really enjoyed this thread. I just found it a bit ago and read the whole thing. I have been yelling at the screen at several points. :D

I would clean up what you have and repair it.

Please don't overlook the fact that something probably jammed and caused the issue. I think you had best lift the whole table off the ways and look at the gibs. I bet you find the problem that caused all this. It would be sad to go to the work to do these repairs and then repeat the problem. I bet there's something broken or jammed (the gibs or swarf in there) that is the root cause. Since you had to 'break it loose' with a hydraulic jack, I'm sure there's something wrong in there.

Waiting eagerly for the next installment. I'm glad that my whole shaper weighs less than your table probably does. :)
Click to expand...

With any luck I'll be back to it within a week or so. I have been waiting for my local HF to get in a 2-ton foldable shop crane to make the handling of the bigger pieces a little easier.

Once the horizontal slide was jarred loose, it became loose! (I had already loosened up the gibs though so it shouldn't have been that big of surprise.) It will be interesting to see what it all looks like when I can finally pull it off though. I may have mentioned it before but one thing that looked suspect was a nice long gouge down the length of the left way.



Except for the screw I'm getting down to the part I really hate, paint and getting it off. That is going to be a huge mess. The rust removal itself isn't bad but it will still take some planning.

I'll keep everyone informed of more progress when it happens. :p :)

-Ron
 
Ron if you have a compressor I'd get a needle gun from HF. It will make short work of the paint.

Paul
 
Old Iron said:
Ron if you have a compressor I'd get a needle gun from HF. It will make short work of the paint.

Paul
Click to expand...

I can see where that would take off the loose paint but what is it like on the stuff that's on there "real good". (I have a couple of compressors and I am aware of needle guns but have never had reason to use one.)


1200rpm said:
don`t think of it as a gouge... it`s an oil groove! ;) :biggrin: :biggrin:
Click to expand...

:lmao::lmao::lmao:

-Ron
 
Some aircraft grade paint remover will strip that old enamel off in no time. Get yourself a wire brush, gloves and some goggles and go to town. A couple cases of beer and a few buddies would work as well. :biggrin:

Tom
 
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