Logan model 1935 face plate

O

Oldseabee

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For those who have been following my restoration and helping out with suggestions thank you.
This lathe came with a 3 jaw and 4 Jaw chuck. But no faceplate. This is an 11 inch lathe, what size faceplate would work? Threads are 1 1/2 X 8.
Thanks
Mike
 
Depends on what part you intend to turn on it. Don’t know if I’d buy a faceplate just to have one.

John
 
Your correct it is the larger thread size
 
I spoke with Scott Logan this morning. The 2 pins listed in the drawing as part # 41 are 1/2 X 2.25 long roll pins. That really got him as for it to work 2 of the holes would be a slip fit, 2 a push fit. No wonder it's froze up again.
 
You should look up and print Logan
lathe specs. And if you think about it you might be able to use one back plate for both chucks.
Jimsehr
 
Here what to watch for if you don't purchase from Logan.

1-1/2" 8 tpi is common to many lathes including Logan and Southbend. On the spindle, the length of the un-threaded portion varies widely. Southbend face plates are common. The un-threaded part of the spindle is shorter than a Logan. So a backing plate cut for a Sounthbend when spun onto a Logan won't fully thread on. It will stop short of contacting the spindle registration face. It will have to be modified to fit a Logan.

There was a very recent discussion on this topic and in thread is a link to a table of spindle measurements on the Logan site. Unfortunately it doesn't include the Southbend spindle. But it will give you the measurement of how much of the backing plate needs to slip over the un-threaded part of the mandrel to contact the registration face. Safe bet is regardless of what a listing says, an unknown faceplate is probably cut for a Southbend.

Two options to get it to fit a Logan.
  1. Spin the backing plate as it's supposed to mount. Measure the distance between the back of the plate to the register face.
    1. Remove the backing plate, mount it backwards, and remove the threads for the same distance, maybe just a fraction less to try to remove as little as possible.
    2. Check the fit and cut as necessary until the backing plate contacts the register face.
    3. Cut a ~ 45 degree chamfer in the backing plate but don't open up the hole. The back of the backing plate must contact the registration face of the spindle.
  2. Make an internal collet type mandrel to hold material to cut a spacer/bushing to cover the un-threaded part of the spindle. You will need a collet to either hold the mandrel or you can put a Morse Taper 3 on it and use a length of all thread to pull the mandrel into the spindle.
    1. After you have fitted your mandrel to the lathe, tap the bed end of the mandrel for threading a socket head cap screw (SHCS), size isn't important, but bigger like 3/8 is better.
    2. Put put a taper in the hole. 60 degrees is convenient as that's a center drill taper.
    3. Taper the under side of your SCS 60 degrees or make a tapered washer.
    4. Cross cut the bed end of your collet.
    5. Slip your bushing over the collet, tighten it, and the taper will push the shaft out to hold the bushing. Now cut it to length.
    6. Cover the un-threaded part of the spindle with your bushing, put the backing plate on the spindle backwards, and remove threads until you reach the end of the spindle.
Ron
 
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