Looking For A Post Re. A Homemade Vise Carrying Handle

haven't had my vise of in 18 years, but if I do, I,ll make one then ;-)
 
jmarkwolf said:
Can anyone advise an inexpensive method/tool for putting a radius on the inner edges of that big slot?
Click to expand...

If I understand your question, you want to radius the edges of the slot, both sides, for hand comfort (not talking about cutter radius in the ends of the slot). If that's correct, I would cut the slot as you desire on the manual mill, then use a router, with a carbide roundover bit and guide bearing to radius the edges. Roundover bits from 1/16" to 1" radius come with a standard 1/2" guide bearing so use a 1/2" or larger cutter to make the slot.

EDIT: My suggestion assumes you intend to make the handle out of aluminum (or softer) material. I hope never to try to use a hand held router on steel.
 
Last edited:
Follow up from original poster:

Started my vise handle project.

Material is roughly 5.5in wide x 3.5in tall x 3/4in thick aluminum. Hand slot is 1in wide x 4in long. The carbide router bit is 3/16in radius.

I used a 1in end mill to cut the slot taking about 0.050in per pass. Neglected to take a finish cut along the sides. Was surprised at the chatter on the long sides (hey, I'm a newbie).

After milling the slot, I put the router bit in a 1/2in collet on my Bridgeport, and started taking shallow cuts as I VERY CAREFULLY worked the aluminum around the router bit manually.

Vise_handle_progress_s.jpg

As expected, it was quite grabby and chattered a lot, particularly in the round ends of the slot. I don't think I'll be using that approach again!

Using this dubious method, I radiused the top edge as well as the ID of the slot and it feels quite good to the hand.

Don't own a router table, and don't know how to "stair step" around the ID of the round ends of the slot with X,Y controls on my Bridgeport.

Next step is to fit the pegs.

I've been arguing with myself as to what type of pegs to use. It looks like the original handle had aluminum pegs but am concerned that if the peg holes are too tight that aluminum pegs could gaul and seize when pressing them home.

I'm also not clear on how tight the holes should be for an "honest" press fit with steel pegs. Nor am I clear on how to "achieve" this fit. Drill a standard hole, and turn pegs to fit on my lathe (have a taper problem on my lathe), or drill a standard hole then buy some plus size gauge pins for a press fit, drill and ream to fit a standard peg, or drill and tap the bottom edge of the handle for set screws into the pegs, etc,etc.

Suggestions gratefuly received.
 
Hey, newbie, that's a pretty good looking result! If you got chatter in the slot, it's probably because you were cutting both sides at the same time (1" slot, 1" cutter). The trick here is to make the slot just a bit wider than the cutter, so you can cut down one side and up the other. Takes a bit longer, but you're always cutting the sides in the same direction.

As for the pins, start by finding/making pins that will fit inside the hex heads of the Allen screws. Dowel pins and drill rods come in a variety of sizes, and something readily available should work. Then push the "easy" button - drill your handle to the same nominal size. Dowels will probably press in, but drill rod will likely be a slip fit. So use cherry flavored (ie, red) Loctite to hold the pins in place
 
used one of these for years the pins go into the hex hole of the allen head bolts. that hold the vise jaws doesn't lift that much weight so alum should work fine mine was steel bUt not that thick 3/8 " plate hole for a shackle pin only. use 2 shackles so the load can rotate as needed because it Is not balanced. but worked great. real back saver bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top