Lower trailing arms for my 79 Malibu

Abom79

Registered
Registered
Joined
Apr 18, 2012
Messages
24
I built my car back in 2005. One of the things I fabricated myself was the rear lower trailing arms. My budget was getting quite thin after buying a new crate motor and many other drivetrain components and I thought this would be pretty cool to do. I did buy a new set of energy suspension bushing for all four corners and use the rear bushings to fit the arms I machines. I actually had the right size rectangular tubing in the shop.
I used the mill to drill the center holes to get the ctc correct, the drill press to punch the rough holes, and then back to the mill to bore to size.
Heres some pics of the process.

controlarms001.jpg

controlarms002.jpg

controlarms004.jpg

controlarms006.jpg

controlarms007.jpg

controlarms008.jpg

controlarms009.jpg

controlarms010.jpg

controlarms005.jpg

2-14-06001.jpg

10-6-07003.jpg

10-6-07001.jpg

controlarms001.jpg

controlarms002.jpg

controlarms004.jpg

controlarms006.jpg

controlarms007.jpg

controlarms008.jpg

controlarms009.jpg

controlarms010.jpg

controlarms005.jpg

2-14-06001.jpg

10-6-07003.jpg

10-6-07001.jpg
 
That's a really neat job you've done on the trailing arms.

I've got basically the same trailing arms as you started out with in my HQ Holden (Australian version of the GM A-bodies) which I boxed in by weld a strip of flat bar underneath. I like the way your arms turned out, might have to make a set like them myself.
 
Those are some excelent looking arms. I especially like the urethane bushing kits and the nice finish too. They shoud last the rest of the cars life. Did you do any structural analysis to insure the parts you made were equal to or stronger than the originals. Sometimes they slip in exotic metals for strength and it's not a simple direct replacement. Not saying this situation is that way, but when I make suspension components I over build them to insure I don't get a suprise while driving. I also do not make those kind of parts for any body but for my own personal use. I couldn't stand it if I made a part and got someone hurt or killed, but thats just me. Yours look way too neat to fail and the workmanship is flawless so you'll be good on suspension for a good long while probably. Have a great weekend to,
Wheelchair Bob
 
Thanks guys. No I did not do any type of "structural analyses", but if you look at the pictures you will notice how thick the walls of the tubing are. The arms I built are much beafier than the original stamped steel junk they put under the car. I trust them with my life.

I was going to machine a set of adjustable upper trialing arms, but never had the time, and I was ready to get the car on the road. So I took the stock ones and boxed them in. At least they're a little stouter than original.


upperarms001.jpg

upperarms002.jpg

upperarms003.jpg

upperarms001.jpg

upperarms002.jpg

upperarms003.jpg
 
Great job on your arms. The stock arms are very soft. Back before urethane in the late 70s the only thing you
could use was aluminum. At the small mom&pop drag strip where we raced, in the stock class they looked
for those solid bushings. Plus they rattled bad on the street after 50 miles. 2 of my friends each had a 67 & 69
chevell. Wow did they wheelhop bad. I pulled off the uppers and lowers and pressed sharpened 1 1/2" long X
1/8" welding rod 8 per side into each bushing on there control arms. They had a no welding rule on suspention
parts also for stock class. (before NHRA & AHRA rules were used everywhare) On your stock arm you will see
3 holes going crosswise. I cut 3/8 pipe sleaves to press inside the arm from the open bottom and then bolted
them thru those holes. We never got those 2 cars to wheelhop again. Those pins pressed onto the bushings
made them almost solid. That trick also works with the larger leaf spring bushings. And it lasts longer than the
urethane on 4x4's. You just don't use as many pins.

Your post sparked some memory's and a little history for anyone interisted. I still use that pin trick in bushings
that are to soft and no urethane replacements.

Rick
 
Back
Top