- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 3,627
Your lathe is beautiful!
i like the upgrades you have done:thumbsup2:
i like the upgrades you have done:thumbsup2:
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Micke's Swedish Orn lathe
- Thread starter Micke S
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2014
- Messages
- 465
I still hope to get this little beauty. Price is agreed and it is not much, but the seller shall arrange for transport, which may or may not be possible. The preliminary response is that the seller will try to arrange it and has a local carrier to talk with.
Apart from getting a good clean up it needs to get a conventional drive pulley. I think 4 ropes and a 5 kW 3-phase engine plus VFD are needed. The lathe is a little beast about 10 feet wide. Even though it isn't built this week it shows little signs of wear. It has never been used in production, only for repair work at the castle.
Apart from getting a good clean up it needs to get a conventional drive pulley. I think 4 ropes and a 5 kW 3-phase engine plus VFD are needed. The lathe is a little beast about 10 feet wide. Even though it isn't built this week it shows little signs of wear. It has never been used in production, only for repair work at the castle.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 3,627
Jag funderar på att ta en tur till Stockholm, om du inte tar det vackra svarv!
Mycket trevlig maskin !!!
Gott Nytt År !!!
mike
)
Mycket trevlig maskin !!!
Gott Nytt År !!!
mike
)
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2011
- Messages
- 4,142
Micke,you must not hold the lathe center in the 3 jaw chuck to grind it. The center now is no more accurate than the 3 jaw chuck is. If the chuck is .003" out,now the center is also.
To really get it true,you need to insert the center into the tailstock hole,and grind the tip while rotating the center somehow. I'd recommend using a rubber belt,even one from a vacuum cleaner,for example. Put the rubber belt around the body of the center and loose around the outside of an electric drill chuck. Hold the drill by hand above the center. Be careful to not let the belt run off of the chuck or the center body. You might need a helper for this operation. Grind the center as it rotates.
You could try just letting the center rotate a bit all by itself while the grinding wheel is grinding it. IF the center runs quite freely this might work. Lightly put your finger against the body of the center while it is getting ground. This to make sure the center does not run at the same relative speed as the grinding wheel. Let the center slip on your finger as you apply the grinding wheel.
I really think you will need to use a rubber belt and electric drill,though. When finished,the center will be absolutely accurate with no run out in relation to the hole in the tailstock.
Your lathe looks very nice,and seems to be of about the same quality as an American South Bend. The finish on the aluminum piece is very beautiful!
The felt pieces on the carriage are called WIPERS. It is important to keep them in contact with the bed,as you have done. Be sure to oil those plain bronze headstock bearings every time you use the lathe. And every few hours while you are using it.
Cover the lathe bed with paper or plastic while grinding. Grit will go right through cloth and get onto the bed. Remove it carefully when done,and put it into the trash. Don't try re using it.
Those plain headstock bearings can produce the finest finishes if kept in good condition. Some of the finest older lathes,such as Dean Smith and Grace had plain bronze bearings. Bronze bearings can produce better finishes than ball bearings,if kept well.
To really get it true,you need to insert the center into the tailstock hole,and grind the tip while rotating the center somehow. I'd recommend using a rubber belt,even one from a vacuum cleaner,for example. Put the rubber belt around the body of the center and loose around the outside of an electric drill chuck. Hold the drill by hand above the center. Be careful to not let the belt run off of the chuck or the center body. You might need a helper for this operation. Grind the center as it rotates.
You could try just letting the center rotate a bit all by itself while the grinding wheel is grinding it. IF the center runs quite freely this might work. Lightly put your finger against the body of the center while it is getting ground. This to make sure the center does not run at the same relative speed as the grinding wheel. Let the center slip on your finger as you apply the grinding wheel.
I really think you will need to use a rubber belt and electric drill,though. When finished,the center will be absolutely accurate with no run out in relation to the hole in the tailstock.
Your lathe looks very nice,and seems to be of about the same quality as an American South Bend. The finish on the aluminum piece is very beautiful!
The felt pieces on the carriage are called WIPERS. It is important to keep them in contact with the bed,as you have done. Be sure to oil those plain bronze headstock bearings every time you use the lathe. And every few hours while you are using it.
Cover the lathe bed with paper or plastic while grinding. Grit will go right through cloth and get onto the bed. Remove it carefully when done,and put it into the trash. Don't try re using it.
Those plain headstock bearings can produce the finest finishes if kept in good condition. Some of the finest older lathes,such as Dean Smith and Grace had plain bronze bearings. Bronze bearings can produce better finishes than ball bearings,if kept well.
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2014
- Messages
- 465
The QCTP could move in some cases like e.g. when turning a hex rod where the tool is hammered. Bergströms QCTS's has a 10,00 mm hole for a locking pin. So I drilled a couple of holes at different angles in the tool rest and turned a 9,98 mm locking rod. The knurled knob on top was found in the scrap bin.
I've had a tremendous use of the old lathe.
The next pictures are build up of a new wheel with a larger than stock brake hub for one of the 2-strokers. The hub was a bit narrower than the old one so a few other pieces where also made to make it fit.
I've had a tremendous use of the old lathe.
The next pictures are build up of a new wheel with a larger than stock brake hub for one of the 2-strokers. The hub was a bit narrower than the old one so a few other pieces where also made to make it fit.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 3,627
Hi Micke, Nice Job!!!
if you were to hand scrape the bottom of the QCTP and the top surface of the compound rest, the QCTP wouldn't move easily.
just a FYI, but i like your solution!
if you were to hand scrape the bottom of the QCTP and the top surface of the compound rest, the QCTP wouldn't move easily.
just a FYI, but i like your solution!