Need help wiring Clausing 8520

[JPigg55]

Personally I would not be so quick to condemn that motor but I have been playing around with motors since I was about 12. If you don't feel comfortable working on it please pass that motor on to someone else who is rather than scrap it. I believe that is a Rockwell 62-610 and probably dates to the 1960's. If that is correct the shaft size is 1/2" and most probably will not match the 1.5hp motor. The mounting base will also probably not match.

I'll probably see if I can find someone locally who can rewind it if it's not too $$$$$.

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On a positive thought a little extra oomph might be a good thing too. Going from 1/2 to 1 1/2 as long as you can bolt it up and aligh the pulleys is fine. You could even bore the pulley for a larger shaft or make a sleeve to go smaller. If it will run on 220 and switch directions it is a home run. Most of our small machines could use a bit more power, but that seems to be one of the places they cut short to save a little money. I would expect the motors to be physically larger in dialeter, but the important measurement is the shaft diameter and available length. You can always but a belt a tad longer or shorter once you get it mocked up and being assembled. I personally would not hesitate to adapt that motor if I could do it without making any permanent change to the basic machine. Motor plates and mounts are easy to drill and tap on the motors. Definately don't forget to post some pics up because according to the manual I ordered for the 8520 it originally was shipped in 1964 with no motor and you were supposed to supply one when you got the machine. They included the hardware and even the rubber grommets, but no motor on the originals.

Bob

I'm thinking I'll give it a try while I wait to see if I can get the other rewound.
The 1.5 horse motor I have is an old Dayton and at a glance looks to have similar diameter, but quite a bit longer housing. I'll have to pull it off my old milkhouse vacuum pump and check the shaft diameter. I was more worried about overpowering the mill where I'd run the risk of damaging the mill head instead of stalling out the motor. Figure the tooling would go first, but one never knows.
I don't think I'd risk it, but I happened to find and buy another complete mill head for an 8520. Price was too good to pass up I thought and it's not like they're something you can find every day.
I'll take pictures and post it if it works out.
Thanks everyone for all the help and advice.

 

[Bill Gruby]

I agree with you. The motor doesn't sound like it is goo. Even if it was, I would be concerned about the quality of the insulation. Being cracked and brittle, I would just use it as a boat anchor unless it is looked at by someone that really knows motors.

Personally I would think a 1 hp would be to big if it fits. The 8520 did recommend a 1/2-3/4 hp.

My 1 HP had the exact same mount. Bolted right in place with no mods. Best move I ever made. I am rebuilding another 8520 for a friend, it will also have the 1 HP.

"Billy G"

 

[JPigg55]

Personally I would not be so quick to condemn that motor but I have been playing around with motors since I was about 12. If you don't feel comfortable working on it please pass that motor on to someone else who is rather than scrap it. I believe that is a Rockwell 62-610 and probably dates to the 1960's. If that is correct the shaft size is 1/2" and most probably will not match the 1.5hp motor. The mounting base will also probably not match.

Well after checking, my 1.5 HP motor shaft is quite a bit larger. Machining out the pulley may be an option, but I don't think I'll go theat way.
After a few call, it seems getting the original motor repaired wouldn't be cost effective, so if anyone is interested in it, send me a PM.
Think I'll end up looking for a new motor either 3/4 or 1 HP.

Here's a couple pictures of my motor label plate for those who may be intersted in it.

 

[JohnAspinall]

I'm currently (slowly) wiring my 8530 for 220V. A few general observations:

If you've got a dual voltage, reversible, motor that can function in all four ways (low voltage forward, low voltage reverse, high voltage forward, ...) then it must offer you three separate windings, meaning six wires, (not counting ground). If you know nothing more about the motor, you should be able to group them into three pairs by checking with an ohmmeter. (Original Poster JPigg55 clearly knows this, and I agree that it doesn't look good to find so few pairs conducting.)

Second, you can usually pick out the starter winding in a couple of ways: look for the rising resistance over time due to the capacitor, or if you can spin the motor up to speed mechanically, you can see the winding cut out due to the centrifugal switch.

There's still one missing piece of information: the relative phase of the two main windings. These are the windings that you wire in parallel at low voltage, and in series at high voltage, but either way you need one more bit of information so that you get their magnetic fields adding inside the motor, rather than cancelling out. I don't know of an easy way to get that information without try-it-and-see; I'd love to hear about a way, if anyone knows one.

Now as to the Clausing manual wiring diagram. (I think I have the same manual, if it's the reprint available on the net in various places.) The way they show the drum switch wired is for when you don't have a contactor/starter. I prefer having a contactor, and the drum switch wiring is quite different. (I'll post a notebook sketch when I can find a working camera.)

 

[JPigg55]

My 1 HP had the exact same mount. Bolted right in place with no mods. Best move I ever made. I am rebuilding another 8520 for a friend, it will also have the 1 HP.

"Billy G"

Hey Billy G,
Shopping around for a new motor, I remembered and old post of your when you aquired your 8520 and was rebuilding it.
You had to get a new motor as well and got the Grizzly G2532 Motor 1 HP Single-Phase 1725 RPM TEFC 110V/220V - $149.95 + shipping. http://www.grizzly.com/products/G2532
Sounds like a good way for me to go as well, but also saw the Grizzly H5377 Motor 3/4 HP Single-Phase 1725 RPM TEFC 110V/220v - $173.95 + shipping. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Motor-3-4-HP-Single-Phase-1725-RPM-TEFC-110V-220V/H5377
Not sure why the H5377 costs more than the G2532 and is a lower HP motor. Anyone know why ???
Sounds like you've been happy with the motor.

 

[Bill Gruby]

I am extremely happy with it. It was a snap to install and my electrician had no issues with it. It runs extremely quiet. My mill is in the cellar and you cannot hear it running upstairs. I run the mill an average of 12-14 hours per 5 day week. I recommend that 1 HP motor anytime someone asks.

"Billy G"

 

[JPigg55]

I took Billy G's advice and ordered the Grizzly G2532 Motor.
Since I'm not very familiar with drum switches thought I'd get some advice.
Here are a couple picures of the drum switch with the terminals numbered.



I want to wire the motor for 220v single phase. I'd also like to add a 110v plug much like the original power cord had (mine was totally FUBAR) I assume for powering the optional power feed (mine didn't have one, but want to add one).
How should I wire the switch giving reference to the terminals as numbered ???

 

[Bill Gruby]

The plug, male and female.

"Billy G"

 

[JPigg55]

Never mind, I figured it out.

 

[JohnAspinall]

Sorry for the delay. Here's my wiring diagram, for my 8530 with contactor. Motor wiring is for 220V, i.e. the higher voltage on a dual voltage motor.
One pic is straight from the shop notebook, I've marked up a second copy with the major components.


Hope this helps someone.
- John