New G0759 Owner - New Guy Questions

It was a longer piece that was wider than the vise it stuck out one end and I cut it on the outside as my parallels haven't arrived yet. Good call though.
 
The draw bar is a joke, and so is the dimple on the spindle that is supposed to be used to hold the spindle while you tighten the draw bar. The draw bar setup was designed to release the collet when you back it off. If you make a replacement, you'll have to whack the draw bar to release the collet. If you make the draw bar with a 3/4" head, you should be able to use a Bridgport style wrench. It comes with a whacker cast into the handle.

My spindle lock dimple tore out in the first few weeks. You can buy an after market spindle lock, or make one yourself. I was doing a project when the dimple failed, so I grabbed a strap wrench to hold the spindle. It works well enough that I've never gotten around to making a proper spindle lock.

You do have to get the draw bar pretty tight. That's hard to do with the tiny top on the draw bar and no proper spindle lock. I nearly trashed a couple of days of machining when I was cutting pockets in the aluminum body of the dog clutch for my 10X22. The aluminum sucked the end mill out of the collet while I was climb milling the pocket. With all the chips all over, I didn't realize what was going on until the mill stalled. I'm real careful on heavy cuts now. A set of end mill holders is on my tool list.

I would not put the collet rack on the motor. You are going to mostly use 3 collets 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. I probably use 3/8 body end mills 75% of the time. You are going to want an end mil rack, a drawer to hold wrenches and stuff, and a shelf for the rotary table that you will eventually get. A tool cabinet like the one in the draw bar picture is nice. I have several. Costco sells them.

You're going to love your new mill. It is so much better than your old X2 that it's scary.
 
The tool cabinet in the drawbar picture is what I had my PM25 mounted to. Puts all your tooling right below the mill. Very handy. :)
 
As for the retainer of the drawbar - I keep that fairly tight. Wouldn't want it to come off at 1500 rpm. It would be a swiftly rotating missile. On the drawbar design, I saw one that incorporated the retainer that comes with the PM25 so you can still not have to whack the top of the drawbar. Some will say that whacking the top of the drawbar can be therapeutic.
 
Hi Dave,

I was wondering if you could answer a question for me. What is the total height of the 759 sitting on the with the mill head at its maximum height?
Thanks in advance.

Gary
 
I don't have the stand it came with as I have it mounted to a bench. I can measure from the bench to the top if that would help. The stand had the machine to low for me that I found I would be bending down to look at the work.
 
That would be great. Just make sure that the mill head is at the top of its travel. The only reason I ask is I want to put this machine in a low basement, I want to be sure it will fit before I order it.

Thanks
Gary
 
Baithog said:
The draw bar is a joke, and so is the dimple on the spindle that is supposed to be used to hold the spindle while you tighten the draw bar. The draw bar setup was designed to release the collet when you back it off. If you make a replacement, you'll have to whack the draw bar to release the collet. If you make the draw bar with a 3/4" head, you should be able to use a Bridgport style wrench. It comes with a whacker cast into the handle.

My spindle lock dimple tore out in the first few weeks. You can buy an after market spindle lock, or make one yourself. I was doing a project when the dimple failed, so I grabbed a strap wrench to hold the spindle. It works well enough that I've never gotten around to making a proper spindle lock.

You do have to get the draw bar pretty tight. That's hard to do with the tiny top on the draw bar and no proper spindle lock. I nearly trashed a couple of days of machining when I was cutting pockets in the aluminum body of the dog clutch for my 10X22. The aluminum sucked the end mill out of the collet while I was climb milling the pocket. With all the chips all over, I didn't realize what was going on until the mill stalled. I'm real careful on heavy cuts now. A set of end mill holders is on my tool list.

I would not put the collet rack on the motor. You are going to mostly use 3 collets 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. I probably use 3/8 body end mills 75% of the time. You are going to want an end mil rack, a drawer to hold wrenches and stuff, and a shelf for the rotary table that you will eventually get. A tool cabinet like the one in the draw bar picture is nice. I have several. Costco sells them.

You're going to love your new mill. It is so much better than your old X2 that it's scary.
Click to expand...

Thanks Larry! I've been looking at spindle locks as already changing tooling is a pain. I'm still not sure what I'll end up doing for the draw bar but an upgrade is definitely in order. I have a shelf and bin for misc stuff now but have been looking for a small tool chest with drawers or some other system that will fit on the bench space next to the mill. So you say I will get a rotary table heh?
 
Hopefully this photo attached. It is just a hair under 37" from bench top to the top of the motor cover when the head is as high as it goes.

image.png
 
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