New Pm 727m Mill

so it's easy to add two blocks into each side of the X axis but the problem with the gibs.. (3dshooter80) was right! and I think to go 2" each side without gibs is losing accuracy and possible vibrations.... and I think that is true specially if you do cut next to that area..

for CNC if you are going to replace the lead screw then longer ball screw is required to full the length of the X axis travel..

it's better to increase the Y axis than the X axis since the Y axis is done by just cutting the extra metal in the saddle channel.

and for that main reason I picked G0704 against PM727M I have plan to make supporting metal that can be screwed on the column from top to the bottom and then that metal will go like L and set on flat plate that both the base (saddle ) and the column will set on it and the L will screw on that plate now with this modification you can add 3 phase motor with 2 Hp and you don't have to think even about the tilting or any rigidity problem..

then extending the Y Axis up to 9" at the end will have very ridged 9x18 travel mill!
I was about to call Grizzly and ship my G0704 back and get the Pm727m instead!
I am getting my mill tomorrow!!!

Oz
 
The more I think about it, the more I think it might not be that big of a deal to increase the travel. The G0704 or PM25 have more travel due to a narrower saddle. The tables of all three mills (PM 727 included) appears to be basically ifentical. So, if the other two can travel more just from the narrower saddles, then there is less gib contact on those, and nobody is complaining about this with those mills. I would still have the same amount of gib contact as the 25 or 0704.
 
3d,
Have a question, did that mill come with instructions a user guide? I am interested in knowing if there was a break in run and what lube should be used after words.
 
Yes, the mill does come with a manual. As this mill is a variation of the mill that is also sold by Grizzly, Bolton, etc, the manual is generic. The difference in the machines appears to be in what user features are incorporated. For instance, Grizzly's model has a tapping feature. The PM model can do that too, simply by using the start and stop buttons in conjunction with the forward and reverse functions. I am sure there are differences in things unseen as well, such as bearing quality.

I replied to your other post with this same information. Go to http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Benchtop-Mill-Drill/G0795 and download the manual from there. ISO 68 is the recommended fluid. All of these machines such as the PM 932 / 45 that are geared head machines would use the same oil. There is a stick from RayC that goes into how to do the oil change for a PM 45 at the top of the forum page. He states to use either ISO 68 or 32 depending on climate / temperature. I actually just did the oil change in mine since I have now had it about three months. I ended up using AW 46 hydraulic oil since it is slightly thinner than the 68 and it is winter time here now. I will change the oil again in the spring.
 
Yes, the mill does come with a manual. As this mill is a variation of the mill that is also sold by Grizzly, Bolton, etc, the manual is generic. The difference in the machines appears to be in what user features are incorporated. For instance, Grizzly's model has a tapping feature. The PM model can do that too, simply by using the start and stop buttons in conjunction with the forward and reverse functions. I am sure there are differences in things unseen as well, such as bearing quality.

I replied to your other post with this same information. Go to http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Benchtop-Mill-Drill/G0795 and download the manual from there. ISO 68 is the recommended fluid. All of these machines such as the PM 932 / 45 that are geared head machines would use the same oil. There is a stick from RayC that goes into how to do the oil change for a PM 45 at the top of the forum page. He states to use either ISO 68 or 32 depending on climate / temperature. I actually just did the oil change in mine since I have now had it about three months. I ended up using AW 46 hydraulic oil since it is slightly thinner than the 68 and it is winter time here now. I will change the oil again in the spring.

Did not realize I had asked this here.... oops

I did notice the tap deal was missing, just the idea that one can tap with a powered machine is off the chart all by itself. I am use to hand taping, power taping will take some getting use to...

It is the old crawl before you walk thing...
 
Anybody else taken a look at the website lately and seen this new mill? It appears to be a RF45 style variant with a slightly smaller table. 15" of x travel, 8.25" of Y travel, 16" of Z travel, with 18" spindle to table!! And, it is a 110 volt machine. Looks very appealing for $1,800.

I JUST GOT A PM-727M MYSELF . I GOT THE 3 AXIS READOUT / POWER TABLE FEED MODEL .
I BOUGH DIRECT AND SAVED A COUPLE HUNDRED OVER THE E-BAY OR AMAZON PRICE .

I LIKE THE MILL . WHILE IT CLEARLY IS NO BRIDGEPORT , IT IS GREAT FOR THE MACHINING I DO AT HOME
AND FITS INTO TIGHT QUARTERS REMARKABLY WELL . I CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT A READOUT .

THE FIRST THING THAT HAD TO GO WAS THE SILLY STAND THAT PM SUPPLIES WITH THE MILL .
IT IS TOO SHORT AND THE LOCKER WITH A SHELF IS NOT VERY USEFUL . IT ALSO STINKS , LITERALLY .

I BOUGHT A BABY VIDMAR CABINET WITH 5 DRAWERS . 22" WIDE , 29" DEEP & 33" TALL .
THESE CABINETS ARE BUILT LIKE TANKS . IT HAS NO TROUBLE SUPPORTING THE MILL .
I KEPT THE STOCK CHIP TRAY FOR A DASH OF BLUE .

THE DRAWERS CAN SUPPORT 100 POUNDS EACH SO ALL OF MY TOOLING , TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES
HAVE A PLACE NOW . IT IS ALL INSTANTLY ACCESSIBLE & IT TAKES UP NO EXTRA FLOOR SPACE !

BEST OF ALL , THE MILL IS 5" HIGHER THAN IT WAS . NO MORE BENDING OVER TO TURN CRANKS .
AT 6'2" , MY BACK IS LOVIN' IT !

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Just put down a deposit last thursday for the same mill. And now the weighting begins, im looking at 6 to 8 weeks before the next order comes in. Like the cabinet buy the way, it looks good.
 
Just put down a deposit last thursday for the same mill. And now the weighting begins, im looking at 6 to 8 weeks before the next order comes in. Like the cabinet buy the way, it looks good.

I GUESS I GOT MINE AT THE RIGHT TIME , THEY DELIVERED IT WITHIN A WEEK .

I GOT THE CABINET FROM AN E-BAY SUPPLIER . THEY WANT STRONG MONEY FOR THEM
BUT SEEM QUITE WILLING TO KNOCK OFF 100 BUCKS IF YOU ASK .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262018898506?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Yea they are quite proud of those cabinets. How do like the mill so far? Any feed back would be great.
 
I HAVE NOT DONE MUCH TIME WITH IT YET .

MY WIFE HAD A HEART TRANSPLANT IN NOVEMBER AND I WAS AT THE HOSPITAL EVERY DAY FOR NEARLY TWO MONTHS .
NOW THAT SHE IS HOME , SHE IS COMPLETELY DEPENDENT ON ME FOR NEARLY EVERYTHING .

I TRY TO SLIP OUT TO THE SHOP WHEN I CAN .
I USED THE PM-727M TO MAKE ALL THE BRACKETS FOR THE DRO ON MY LATHE .
LIKE I SAID , IT's NOT A BRIDGEPORT . THE SIZE IS THE BIGGEST FACTOR .

A Z-AXIS READOUT SEEMS LIKE A LUXURY . HOW DID I WORK SO MANY YEARS WITHOUT ONE ?
THE EASSON DRO THAT THEY SELL WITH THE PM IS GREAT & IT COMES FULLY SET UP .

I WOULD RATHER CRANK THE SPEED UP & DOWN THAN CHANGE GEARS . A VFD WOULD BE A GREAT UPGRADE .

THERE ARE SOME DESIGN FLAWS .
THE X TABLE LOCKS HANG DOWN . THEY CAN GET CAUGHT & BREAK WHEN CRANKING THE Y TABLE IN .
THE Y TABLE LOCKS ARE WAY TOO HARD TO REACH & THE LEVERS ARE TOO SHORT . ( I MAY TRY TO REMEDY THIS )
AS NICE AS IT IS TO HAVE AN ACCORDION WAY PROTECTOR FOR THE Z WAYS , IT IS A CHIP MAGNET & IT HANGS .
I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE AN ADJUSTABLE STOP FOR THE QUILL ( LIKE A BRIDGEPORT )

OVERALL I AM PLEASED WITH THE PM . IT IS PRETTY SOLID AND HAS DONE A FINE JOB OF EVERYTHING I HAVE ASKED T TO DO .
THE PRICE WAS A BIG PART OF MY DECISION .
ANOTHER WAS THAT IT IS THE MOST MILL I CAN FIT INTO THE SPACE I HAVE TO WORK WITH .

I JUST SOLD TWO FULLY EQUIPPED BRIDGEPORTS BECAUSE I DIDN'T HAVE ROOM FOR THEM .
I DID KEEP A 6" KURT VISE & HAVE IT ON THE PM NOW . MIGHT BE A BIT BIG SO I AM SHOPPING FOR A 4" KURT .

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