Next Project: Fly Cutter

Maddogmech1

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After completing my steady rest, I had a longing to make more of a swarf mess all over my shop, so I decided to upgrade my fly cutter set. I purchased the set from littlemachineshop, it was, in fact, the first tooling I bought after getting my mill, and I was very underwhelmed with the results. I couldn't seem to get a good finish no matter what I tried, but figured it was my lack of experience. Then a machinist buddy of mine tried them and told me to scrap them. Onto the project!
1c547e8704ff68800f6564d5f9b49076.jpg
Here I start with a 3" piece of CRS. Just some stock I have around. I wanted a solid, one piece cutter, instead of a screw on shank.
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I figured a 1.5" shank would suffice, minus a little for a taper into the main head
4f1b72f0749ea55ab7a4faadac58bf70.jpg
After quite a few passes (and a couple beers later) the shank is turned down to 27/32", my second largest R8 collet. a9d33d1455507ff2547e0f3c795f15d4.jpg
Reversed in to chuck and faced and cleaned up. Notice the change to the 4-jaw chuck, for accuracy. That's all for tonight, I'll post more as I go


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Are you making a different design? If not why would the new one be better than the old one.

I bought a cheap import set and the were just like everything else from over there, A kit to be finished. I cleaned the cheap ones up in my lathe , drilled out the set screws for a larger American thread ( the tiny screws they used let the tool slip). and ground some HHS tools and they work great now.
 
Yes, I'm going to use a slide bar, with carbide inserts, the bar will slide parallel to the work, and lock down with set screws


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Oh...ok. I have seen this type. I look forward to the rest of your project and how it works for you.
 
Didn't have much time in the shop tonight, but got a little done. Thought I'd start on the cutter bar so I had measurements to go off when finishing the head
55de7a6952b5bbfc7821c390c89c240a.jpgstarted with a piece of 5/8" plate and cut to size, then squared up in the mill. I figured the main part would be 1", while the end with the cutter .01 thicker
6bd752e2a4cf9948cf3b0ba6c666a6ad.jpgmocked up the insert and drill/tap for M5x.08 cap screw. I got a bunch of these inserts from eBay on the cheap.
5b5b2adfce64a0c670950277b3a76eb2.jpgroughed out shape of the cutter bar.


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I love Saturdays. I decided first thing today I'd work on the finish of the head, as I didn't want to have to fight the slot and setscrew holes. 8295836342ef02109148b489c27b0339.jpghere it is after some finesse with sandpaper in the lathe. I went down to 800 grit for a nice satin finish. c31a5d8a266dcfa59ac34d39e042b638.jpgfound center for the side of the cutter bar slot37b094ae65239a569de7669f518fa7e7.jpgmilled slot out. I know, I know, where's my V-block? I don't have one yet, so I took light .020 passes all the way to 1" depth. 07f58c656ba20971d055f0ad1e509758.jpgslot milled0603207f35fdb29d6e9214474c929e42.jpgi used a 1/2 endmill and located and milled flats where the setscrews go. Then drill/tap to 3/8-16 for the screws. dc2f9a0beac68df3dfa3335f22b937ad.jpghere she is all pretty. Does it work?e22d3b86edd7ad62356e572ac55b14d6.jpgI'll let the pics tell the story. That's a .005 finish pass at 800 rpm in alum


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14bf9d91da1b415191d5dcd6cf1b44c6.jpgheres a piece of junk hot roll I had laying around. This stuff is a bear to machine so I'm pretty happy with the finish.


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Nice work. I have found the key to a good finish on Hot Roll is light finish cut, at gold or blue chip speed with fresh insert and tram the head slightly out so the trailing edge does not cut, or worse drag a chip around scratching the surface. I have gotten finishes that look like a mirror. One chip dragging can ruin the whole thing, as can a built up edge on cutter.

michael
 
nice work on that cutter!
by the way how is the cutter shank held in the spindle ?
Dan
 
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