Phase Ii Axa For A 10x24 Lathe

[Bamban]

I started the re-assembly of the Federal 10 x 24 lathe. Opened the PII QCTP shipping box then realized that the AXA class QCTP require a T-slot type arrangement to mount it, the compound rest on my 10x24 does not have a T slot. I should know better, my 12x36 has an Aloris AXA. The OEM bolt is larger, should I just make a new one to fit the Phase II except with a larger diameter at the base to mount to the compound rest? Should I cut a T slot across? There may not be enough meat to have structural strength at the lips? Should I just machine a metal plate the width of the compound, bolt it to the compound rest with a tapped hole in the middle for the tool post bolt?

How would you guys go about installing this QCTP?

Thank you.

 

[mikey]

I would just make a new post that fits into the top slide like the original post does and turn and thread the part of the stud that sticks up to fit your new tool post. I had to do that, too, and it works fine. I discovered that an Aloris stud cuts easily and suspect it is just 12L14 so use that material if you have some laying around. My stud fits in the top slide hole with a snug slip fit and is locked into place with a socket head cap screw. The screw sits inside a brass bushing that fills the hole the screw sits in to increase the effective contact area of the screw head. The bushing also has a snout that extends into the hole of the top slide to center the screw. I can't post pics since the new forum software kicked in so I hope this doesn't confuse you.

You might also consider making a flanged locking nut with a handle to go with the stud for tool-less locking.

 

[Bamban]

Thank you for the response. Will take the slide out today and see how it looks in there

 

[Bamban]

Mickey sent me some pictures on how his is put together, thanks, bud. MSKJ and I traded a ideas around on how to resolve the situation, thanks, Mark. I encountered some surprises as I took the slide apart. First I thought the original stud was just pressed in and held in place by the 2 grab screws. Found out the stud was threaded at the base and screwed on to the slide and locked in place by the 2 grab screws.








Debated whether to machine the old stud to go through the PII tool post or machine one from scratch. Took the latter. The stud base thread pitch looks like 2.5 metric. My lathe needed a different gear to do metric, so I decided to do the closest Imperial, 1/2 TPI, I figure it is not the right fit, but if I were to thread the stud slowly and use the slide threaded hole as a GO Gauge I might be able to make it work. I happen to have a rusted piece of steel of unknown type that I grabbed from the batch of steel rods and bolts from an oil field operation on the ranch I have access to, I figure I will use it to for a test run, and if destroyed I can get a different rod and start all over again

The new stud will be a hybrid between the original and PII studs,









I took the measurement at the top of the PII for the clearance on how much to turn the rusted rod to. Got the measurements I needed. Instead of threading the top of the new stud to the 14 x 1.5 for the PII flange nut, since I could not thread metric I decided to 9/16 x 18 and turned down the OD to .562. Mark found a package of flange nut on eBay, but it will take days for them to arrive. In the meantime I went to a neighborhood auto parts house and picked up a wheel lug nut. The 9/16x18 is a common auto thread. The nut served as my thread Go Gauge. When test fitted the turned down and threaded rod it did not fit, went in about 3/4 in and dead headed. The sleeve inside the PII has a step ID, smaller at the bottom coincident to the threaded tenon that screws on to the PII base. Had to bore this ID to accommodate the newly machined stud.

The new stud is purposely left longer than what appears to be needed, I want to make sure I would have it go through all the way with the eBay flange nuts. I could not find any dimension on their length.