PM-1022V and other Chinese Lathe Bed Mounting Rigidity

StudioMachinist

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I'm on a bit of a shopping spree while on big prevailing wage job and just purchased a fully loaded PM-727V mill and now I want a lathe.

Based on specs and features, I'm practically set on the 1022V but while doing some research about building a stand for it, a potential issue arose...

The 1022V has 3 mounting bolts (2 under the HS, 1 under the TS) where as the LMS HiTorque 8.5x20 (a distant second choice) appears to have double that. I don't know the difference in castings, but my question is, for anyone with experience, does this lead the 1022V to suffer in the rigidity department?

The current plan for a mounting stand may make the issue a moot point anyways. On some kind of welded steel lattice frame bench will be a concrete slab (built strong with GFRC/plastisizers) with mounting bolts embedded and some sort of jacking bolts or place for shimming the machine level. Space between the machine and slab will be filled with the same kind of metallic epoxy some have used to tram their mill columns.

If this isn't the best subforum, please move to a more appropriate area.
 
Some of the smaller South Bend lathes had a 3 point mounting as you described, this feature is likely so that if bolted down to rough uneven bench, the bed would not be distorted or twisted, reducing the accuracy of its alignment. What you describe above seems to me as absolute overkill for such a small machine; wasted time and effort in the extreme.
 
I'm on a bit of a shopping spree while on big prevailing wage job and just purchased a fully loaded PM-727V mill and now I want a lathe.

Based on specs and features, I'm practically set on the 1022V but while doing some research about building a stand for it, a potential issue arose...

The 1022V has 3 mounting bolts (2 under the HS, 1 under the TS) where as the LMS HiTorque 8.5x20 (a distant second choice) appears to have double that. I don't know the difference in castings, but my question is, for anyone with experience, does this lead the 1022V to suffer in the rigidity department?

The current plan for a mounting stand may make the issue a moot point anyways. On some kind of welded steel lattice frame bench will be a concrete slab (built strong with GFRC/plastisizers) with mounting bolts embedded and some sort of jacking bolts or place for shimming the machine level. Space between the machine and slab will be filled with the same kind of metallic epoxy some have used to tram their mill columns.

If this isn't the best subforum, please move to a more appropriate area.
That is the lathe that Quin on Blondiehacks uses on Youtube, she has several videos on the lathe on her channel. I would personally look at the PM1030 which is the same late with a longer bed, more tool room if I had room for it.
 
That is the lathe that Quin on Blondiehacks uses on Youtube, she has several videos on the lathe on her channel. I would personally look at the PM1030 which is the same late with a longer bed, more tool room if I had room for it.
Yeah I'm considering both.
 
I have the 1130v and I've just snugged the bolts. They are not tight. I had an existing bench and built a new "torsion box" top for it in my attempt to make a very flat surface. Did a little shimming and got it cutting straight near the end of a dry Texas summer. A month or so later, a 3" rain ended that weather stretch, I waited a week and rechecked.....still cutting straight with no taper. I'm pretty sure the foundation and perhaps the bench have moved, but having a flat tabletop seems to have worked for me.
 
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All three mounting holes are inline down the center axis of the lathe. I had mine mounted on a Kobalt rolling tool chest with the wheels removed. Never had a problem with only one HS bolt and one TS bolt. Worked mostly on aluminum, with some mild steel, but I ran it conservatively.

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@StudioMachinist When I owned my 10x22 lathe, I fabricated a stand with a rectangle tube at the top on which the lathe bolted. You will never twist that tube. Ever.
The first picture shows my stand upside down but you can see the tube and the holes for the HS and TS bolts.
Your plan, as Benmychree pointed out, is WAY overkill.
 

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@StudioMachinist When I owned my 10x22 lathe, I fabricated a stand with a rectangle tube at the top on which the lathe bolted. You will never twist that tube. Ever.
The first picture shows my stand upside down but you can see the tube and the holes for the HS and TS bolts.
Your plan, as Benmychree pointed out, is WAY overkill.
I thought of something similar and may go this route if I can find an appropriate tube. I understand how overkill a slab would be but I enjoy that kind of work and have the materials.
 
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