Pm-25mv Manual

He's also offering an Eason 3-axis glass-scale DRO installed for $699, not a bad deal either.
 
Just a thought here, but maybe you could download a Grizzly G0704 manual. They are quite similar, and it may be of some help. They even help the parts list drawing and specs on the Grizzly web site. The numbers may change, but it would get you close anyway.
I'm trying to decide between the two mills, so this is of interest to me.
 
Hi all, just signed up to the forum yesterday. I was wondering to all the guys who have gone with the pm-25mv how satisfied are you with your machine choice?
I'v spent a good deal of time researching which machine I should go with and most people across a majority of machinist forums have leaned more toward the PM-25.
I had a few questions about the machine, since it seems most of you have had the machine for a good amount of time now. One question was did any of you have to hand scrap your ways or were they finished very nicely? Another question, is the speed of the spindle, is there any belt changes that must be made? I couldn't tell from the pictures alone on matt's site. I was also wondering how tight the part tolerances were most of you are able to hold after tramming, and of course proper setup and fixturing.
Sorry for the long first post, but I have one last question, I couldn't find what the total height of the mill plus the stand, from the floor to the top of the mill. I'll be making the purchase for this mill in the next week or two, and it's home will be in my basement shop, and the ceiling is a little under 8', so I wanted to make sure it would with some clearance. Anyway thanks for your time guys^^
 
Welcome aboard. I heartily recommend the PM25.

It will clear your 8' ceiling. I have mine on a work bench 38" off the floor, and it tops out about 78".

I'm pleased with my mill, sure I'd like quill and X feed, but the alternative to me was no machine. I opted for DRO on X and Y, the head has a DRO on the quill. I've found that I use the column movement to get the tool near where I want it to be, then use the quill for fine control.

I have to clamp the head before using the quill, the head moves .007 in X and .0015 in Y when I clamp it. I could probably adjust that out with the column gib, but haven't yet.

Belt changes, yes, there's high and low. low goes from 50 to 1250, high from 100 to 2500. Matt suggested the machine would live longer if you didn't use the higher end of either speed. In other words, if you want 1250, use high, mid range.

The ways are ground, in comparison to many which are just milled. IMHO the tolerances are as good as commercial industrial machinery.

The DC motor (and its control) and the belt drive are real pluses on these machines.
 
I too am very happy with my machine. Matt has speced up his mills to include the brushless motor, belt drive, and three bolt head modification as standard. By the time you add these items to a G0704 you are at about the same price. If you add in the customer service Matt provides and the three year warrantee I think there is only one choice the PM-25.

I agree with Tom you have to lock down each axis to get the best precision out of the machine. I took,my whole machine apart, cleaned, deburred, lubricated and adjusted everything. I also replaced some of the really crappy fasteners. Keep in mind that none of these machines is perfect out of the box. They all require a little TLC to get the best out of them.
 
Thanks guys so much for the responses. I'm normally a woodworker, but I like to mix woodworking with metal working, and my cnc router is just not rigid enough for metal working tasks. So that's kind of why I wanted to jump in getting a mill. I know there is a huge learning curve, and it'll prob take me a good deal of time to learn how to set everything up to get the best performance from the machine. But I'm glad to know I was on the right track for quality of the mill at the price point it has.
 
Blendwood said:
Thanks guys so much for the responses. I'm normally a woodworker, but I like to mix woodworking with metal working, and my cnc router is just not rigid enough for metal working tasks. So that's kind of why I wanted to jump in getting a mill. I know there is a huge learning curve, and it'll prob take me a good deal of time to learn how to set everything up to get the best performance from the machine. But I'm glad to know I was on the right track for quality of the mill at the price point it has.
Click to expand...

If you are an experienced woodworker you are going to love the ease with which you can achieve very accurate results. Many of the set up excersises you used to get your woodworking machines set up are similar, such as squaring fences setting depth of cut, Fixturing... I recommend tearing down the mill to clean and adjust everything. That way when something goes wrong you will know what it is.

I am in the process of building a 36"x48" CNC router. I am building it from scratch with 8020 extrusions and Mic 6 aluminum plate. I will have a 3.3KW spindle, and hope to be able to cut aluminum, and possibly light steel.
 
brav65 said:
I am in the process of building a 36"x48" CNC router. I am building it from scratch with 8020 extrusions and Mic 6 aluminum plate. I will have a 3.3KW spindle, and hope to be able to cut aluminum, and possibly light steel.
Click to expand...

Do you have a thread about that build as I would love to see how that comes together?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Duker said:
Do you have a thread about that build as I would love to see how that comes together?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

No I don't. I am building from scratch with my son. I have some sketches, but no solid plan. We almost have the control box complete, I have all the pieces cut for the stand as well as the table and gantry. Once finished with the control box I need to mill all of the mounting plates for the gantry and motors.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top