PM30 One-Shot Oiler System

Very nice job, I really like the way you bent your brass tubing. Can you tell the members how you got them so nice and not crimping them? I would use the armor coated hoses though as a hot chip or continuous rubbing nylon tubing will cut a hole in them. When I used to install lube systems I would plump in a cheap pressure gage and mark where the needle went to when new and made a little sign that said . " lower or no pressure means a leak" & If the pressure goes up, something is plugged". A question too, are the ways milled or ground as they don't look like there are any scraped oil pockets? Are there any oil grooves in the long ways to distribute the oil down the ways or just those little short ones by the holes?. I used to grind or cut long long diagonal ones in ways to make the original design better. :)
 
Richard King 2 said:
Very nice job, I really like the way you bent your brass tubing. Can you tell the members how you got them so nice and not crimping them? I would use the armor coated hoses though as a hot chip or continuous rubbing nylon tubing will cut a hole in them. When I used to install lube systems I would plump in a cheap pressure gage and mark where the needle went to when new and made a little sign that said . " lower or no pressure means a leak" & If the pressure goes up, something is plugged". A question too, are the ways milled or ground as they don't look like there are any scraped oil pockets? Are there any oil grooves in the long ways to distribute the oil down the ways or just those little short ones by the holes?. I used to grind or cut long long diagonal ones in ways to make the original design better. :)
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I have always used an imperial 364-fh03 bender to do oiler tubing without kinks. The ridgid 603 is pretty nice as well if not better. I have them in 1/4, and 3/8 but not the 3/16
 
rodm1 said:
Try CUNIFER brake line you done need a tool to bend it.

Copper Nickel Brake Line (Cunifer) Coils – BrakeConnect

Replace your steel lines with easy to work with flexible Copper Nickel/Cunifer Brake Tube
www.brakeconnect.com www.brakeconnect.com
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Bending with a bender still looks much nicer as well as being able to get nice tight bends for generally tight area's that bending by hand with even cunifer will kink.

It is very nice stuff. Its all I will use on cars. i have done several complete chevy trucks that brake lines rot out in just 4 or 5 years and a 20 year jeep wrangler that needed all the tubing replaced.
 
rafprecision said:
Hey guys,
I recently completed a "one-shot" oiler system install on my PM30 Bench Top Mill.
Decided to go with Bijur metering valves, junction blocks, 4mm nylon and brass tubing, and other misc 4mm (5/32") fittings.
However, I opted not to purchase the Bijur "one-shot" oiler, instead, I found a "similar" unit on Amazon for a lot less $$$$! :)
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I bought some cheap adjustable manifolds to do a similar project. I have never attempted such a thing and i see 4mm brass tube available in .45 and .225 thickness. (looking at the onlinemetals/k&s as it seems available). Which thickness is better for this kind of use where it will be bent around a bunch? I plan on getting a bender, and the flex line seems less likely to be trouble.
 
See my version here with supply links Scroll down the first page for the one shot install.
You really need to remove the table to do this. It isn't as traumatic as you think- i ended up having to remove it several times for my install, but that involved not having the parts on hand and several other major changes not related to the lube system. Once you have the manifold mount figured and all your parts it is only a couple hours project from removing the table to having it back together. Removing the table isnt so bad if you thread it off using the lead screw and supports to hold it up in place on the right side. no lifting required.
 
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