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- Jan 20, 2021
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- Washington State
Take a look at the nyloc mod for the Prusa. It's dirt simple and will solve your problem. Here's some relevant info:
Thanks. This was the first one that I've seen that was presented clearly. I found lots of references, but hadn't stumbled upon a clear set of pictures and steps. I'm not sure I want to use nylon washers, but may simply put the smooth side down of a washer. Nylon changes dimension a bit over temperature. A lot of these stamped M3 washers have terrible sharp edges. Even ones from McMaster.Take a look at the nyloc mod for the Prusa. It's dirt simple and will solve your problem. Here's some relevant info:
Peek is an insulator, or at least an insulator compared to a stainless washer! Cheap M3 steel washers are stamped and have sharp edges, so I wanted to avoid any chance of the steel cutting through the coating on the PCB. As it turns out I used carbon filled PEEK which is claimed to be stronger and more moisture resistant. My thinking was I wanted a non sharp washer and a tiny bit of give. PEEK was the highest temperature plastic material that I could find easily in M3.PEEK is an insulator, correct?
Having read through this thread again, I wonder if heat is getting to the sub frame and causing some of your distortion?
I read somewhere that over tightening on initial bed assembly could cause print leveling issues. Heat could certainly amplify the effects of that.
If PEEK isolates the bed from the frame it may resolve some of that distortion you are seeing. I would try to print a full bed layer again and compare your 3x3 grid and see if any improvements.
Through the entire thread, I haven’t read much about the adjustment of your PINDA. I’m curious if fidgeting with those adjustments have given you fits or not. If so, you might consider reinstalling the position. I read (somewhere else) that while you can calibrate with it grossly out of position, I wonder if there is such a thing as adjusting for too much “gain” on that one sensor to get desirable results? During my bed leveling calibration, I wasn’t happy with how much gain was required and moved my PINDA slightly so that it calibrated much more quickly than in its original position. If that doesn’t make sense, let me know.
Question: this is rabbit hole bait and could take us off topic so apologies ahead of time…functionally, your prints are good? Part corners aren’t lifting, warping, etc? Even with those small defects, parts functionally work. Sometimes with 3D printing good enough is simply just that.
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I had bought the kit with the acrylic panels to do the enclosure - and got a little confused about what to print and not print. So I put it on the back burner. I will get back to it this year.I think an enclosure might be the thing you need. It made an incredible difference for me.
You can test this by making some cardboard shields to build up around your printer.
I had some significant drafts in my shop from the mini split unit during winter months. Parts would fail via bed adhesion, warping.
Regarding the PINDA “gain” portion of the discussion. I mean gain as in like a pot adjustment on an electronic device or maybe better said as the fine tuning of a sensor. I remember as a kid adjusting gain on my speed controllers for top or bottom end acceleration for my RC pan car racing. It could make all the difference in how the controller reacted to throttle input.
I felt like when finding the sweet spot for the PiNDA, it’s like that gain adjustment. I read the instructions on PINDA fine tuning and getting to the nominal location was important. It sounds like you have it set properly so probably nothing else to do there.
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