[How do I?] Q's about preserving wood against relentless rain and sun- my shop staircase

[rabler]

Here are a couple more pics. It's so funny how the pics look good compared to what I see when I'm standing there looking at it. The pic with the bottom step shows it's been moist and is growing some moss/algae. Here, the risers face north. It's freaking me out a bit, I want this to last.

That much "green stuff" would worry me. Too much moisture, I'd definitely want to, at the very least
1) rebuild the bottom step or two to have some ventilation, as in gaps between boards.
2) seal everything
3) make sure your drainage doesn't allow water to puddle near the steps.

 

[pontiac428]

Thanks, Randal- there is definitely not enough drainage there. I should re-set that tread with a gap at the riser. Grading is good, water goes where it should, and the soil infiltration rate is so high puddles don't form even in a storm. Constant mist and precip on a year-round basis is the main fight, along with two dry-ish months every summer.

I looked into manufacturer recommendations. First, all the blue/green colored posts are direct burial/ground contact rated, and aren't really part of the problem. The golden colored wood is outdoor rated, copper azole preserved. They say to use an oil-based or water-based stain sealer, and apply every 2-3 years after. Since it's been 2-3 years, and all but the bottom step is dry, I think the semi clear water based sealer is worth a try.

As an aside, when I worked in California, I buried wood all the time, and did it right in front of building and utility inspectors, because it was prescribed. Usually redwood was used as footings for vaults and utility boxes, so the state of CA definitely has requirements for wood being buried. They do here, too, and I paid dearly for the engineering to build my 32-foot high pole barn, so I'm not concerned about that specific type of contact rot. The mud sills in your house's foundation are probably the same material.

Any brand recommendations for water based sealers or oil-based semi clear stain for decking and framing?

 

[DavidR8]

Have always had good luck with Benjamin Moore products. Had absolute crap luck with Behr.

 

[Tozguy]

I was very disappointed in Thompson's water seal products until I tried this on cedar decking and PT wood.
It takes a while to dry but has stood up well. Needs to be touched up in spots after a year of exposure to sun, rain and snow but it has performed better than any other stain/varnish I have tried.

 

[rabler]

No good recommendations on which brand. Just be aware that wood absorbs things (water and stain) much better from end grain. Make sure the ends of your boards get extra attention (preferably an extra coat) when staining/sealing.

 

[tq60]

Your construction does not have gaps where it should.

Deck boards should never touch between them.

The riser boards should be attached to the bottom of the tread above it. The attachment to the tread below is musc stronger, but it traps water if it has an area for drainage.

There may be direct bury lumber. If you have that, KEEP ALL DOCUMENTS!

Inspectors for real estate or some building inspectors have kittens if they see dirt touching wood.

Termites!

Our patio has the posts through the concrete and appears to be possible in dirt, but they are in deep holes, wood is sealed and painted, then in concrete.

If yours was good with building inspector good, but it still matters for termites and other possibilities.

It looks like 2 major causes.

Poor drainage, flat surfaces TOO LEVEL...

Water stands on them, a very slight angle or crowned top allow drainage.

Water traps, water pools, and cannot drain.

Water is a universal solvent. It will attack almost everything over time, and pools create a living environment for bad critters.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[rabler]

Carpenter bees didn't come around this year, but last year they came looking for stuff to dig. My house is sided with cedar shakes, I've seen bees fly in a crack, make some awful scraping noise, and spit out a pellet of wood- they are fast at it too. Luckily, it's just black coconut ants and moss for the most part. The stairs are on the western wall, so it's not too extreme.


I've had to consider that doing nothing is an option too. If that won't lead to later regrets, I'm okay with it. I can sand down the hand rails and call it good. Should I run around with the screw gun and try to hold down anything that's twisting, or is that going to be a fight later on?


It was really moist when built, but after a year it was plenty dry. I was more unnerved by the cupping and pulling at joints than the finish. I wish to preserve its function as long as I can before breaking down and rebuilding it right. I just got the dang thing paid off last September, so... yep.

Around here you would not want open eaves on your shop, the carpenter bees would be in the woodwork there. But lots of woods in the immediate area so carpenter bees are plentiful.

 

[GeneT45]

I came to hear about the "relentless sun" in Bremerton... ;-)
In Albany, Oregon I had a similar staircase and I eventually condemned it, and got rid of it. Steel and/or stone are the way to go. I'm not trying to be difficult, but the first time one of your "heavy" friends puts a foot through a tread, you'll understand...
If you get lucky, you can find a steel stairway on the surplus market for next to nothing. You might need to make some adjustments, but that should be well within your wheelhouse. Hot handrails can be easily covered with a bit of wood, and if the wood fails, well, so?

I'm done with wood for any environment more extreme than my living room...
GsT