Record Bench Vice Restoration

MozamPete

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Well the old rusty Record No.36 Engineers Vice I brought has been torn apart and the main parts cleaned up.
As brought
IMG_1356.JPG

On closer inspection it appers to have a fair bit if wear and the moving jaw is about 3mm lower than the fixed jaw when the jaws are closed. In this vice the moving jaw casting only bears on a couple of areas of about 40mm at the front (under the "AND" in "ENGLAND" in teh photo) and 20mm at the rear of the body.
IMG_1380.JPG

On further investigation when a stright edge is place along the bottom of the moving jaw casting the bottom has about 1,1mm of wear, mainly at the jaw end (as expected).
IMG_1383.JPG

It take about 3.7mm of shimming at the front to bring the jaws to level when closed.
IMG_1381.JPG

So as I see it the option are:

1) Leave it as is - probably a functional option but not going to happen as it will just annoy me too much that the jaws dont line up when closed.

2 ) Mill the moving jaw casting bottom back to flat and parallel, then built up the bearing areas at the front and back of the body to bring it back to the correct height - I know this is probably the proper way to go, but I hadn't intended this to be a major rebuild project.

3) Just build up the front bearing area to aling the jaws when closed and leave it at that - The moving jaw will move up and down slightly with respect to the fixed jaw as it is opened but I don't see that as a major problem. IS IT?

Then if I go for option 2 ) or 3) the question is how to build up the bearing surfaces on the body.

a) Overlay welding and machine back to the correct height is an option as it is a steel vice, but welding isn't my strong point.

b) Machining a shim plate, maybe brass, and fixing it in place with locktite, soldering/brasing or drilling and tapping for a countersunk screw. Seems a less riskey option and the shim could be replaced againg in future if needed.

I'm wanting to end up with a functional tool, not a show piece, and I still will have to do some machining/fabricating to get the quick relaese going again anyway . I have gone over the main parts with a wire wheel in the angle grinder, and then just removed some burrs and weld splatter with a flapper disk. I've left all the hammer blow marks as I think they add character and are the scars earned over a generation or so of use.

Open to other opionions/suggestions. What are the functional implication of not levelling up the moving jaw bottom?
 
A fourth option might be making a new and taller jaw pad for the moveable side so that can line up with the fixed jaw? Depends if the pads are hardened, I guess.

Seriously, if the fact the jaws don't align in the closed position drives you nuts, do you really think you can tolerate knowing they don't line up when the vise is opened? Functionally I think it only becomes an issue if you rely on your jaws to give you proper positioning. For instance, I do a lot of hand filing and having the jaws square to each other is an important visual reference for me in keeping things square with the world. Yes I can adjust for them being out, but it's annoying to have to compensate. Similarly, when you're trying to clamp things on the square you always have to try to remember to set one edge of the part lower or higher because of the misaligned jaws. Maybe it wouldn't be an issue for you depending on the type of work you do with it.

Yes, Option 1 is indeed the better option but more work. Option 3 is kind of appealing because you could try it out with fairly little investment and see if it works ok. I think I'd try a pad of bronze rather than brass though, and would probably use JB Weld as the adhesive. A little bit of heat would take the whole affair back to the way it is now if for some reason you found that it wasn't doing what you expected. I'm interested to see what other folks suggest.

Nice vise, by the way!

-frank
 
If you don't feel comfortable welding it up then I would use a steel shim as it will take more abuse in case you need to do any hammering on something in the vice.
 
Don't assume that cast steel will weld or machine like bar stock, it won't...
 
Don't assume that cast steel will weld or machine like bar stock, it won't...

Thanks for the warning. Makes machining a shim plate seem like the best option for me.
 
you can build up braze a wear pad to the worn area to restore lost metal, if you were so inclined.
a bronze rod would suffice.
 
As I'm going to have to build up the bearing areas of the base in some way anyhow, I decided to go with option 2 - might as well go the whole hog and do it right.

So I set the moving jaw on the mill table and indicated off a stright edge going from end to end, and across from side to side, to get it back to original 'level' (on the assumption that the corners would be pretty much unworn).
IMG_1397.JPG

Milled both side of one end first (as it was longer than my mill's X travel), then flipped it around.

IMG_1398.JPG

Indicated off the freshly milled surface to re level it and milled the other half. Ended up having to take about 1.3mm off at each end to be just skimming the surface at the most worn areas.
IMG_1399.JPG

So I now have a flat base on the moving jaw to measure the required build up against.
 
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If I'm looking at that right, your load in the vise bearing against those two thin surfaces that look to be about 3/8" wide. Is that right?
 
i'm seeing the same thing Ken
the base casting will need fill up work as well, i surmise.
 
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